Spris Artisan Pizza

There are some fine nonpizza items — like carpaccio with avocado and hearts of palm — at this informal sprig of Lincoln Road's longtime upscale Italian fave Tiramesu. But as long as Spris' kitchen keeps producing such great thin-crusted pies from a genuine wood-burning oven, you'll probably never try anything else. The basic Margherita (tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil) and tomatoless "white" Rustica (Parmesan, mozzarella, cured olives, garlic, mushrooms) are both outstanding, owing especially to top-quality cheeses and superior spicing. But the absolute must-not-miss pie is the Porcini, topped with full-flavored tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella, porcini mushrooms, and crunchy arugula thrown on after baking, making this pizza seem almost like health food.