Prelude by Barton G.

Those expecting Barton G.'s over-the-top approach to dining will be surprised to learn that Prelude is practically prop-less. A seared red snapper entrée is clean and light upon flawlessly cooked cubes of eggplant, fennel, zucchini, and yellow squash, all the components cohered by a sublime lemon-butter sauce. Grilled skirt steak bursts with juicy flavor alongside corn, red beans, and a large roasted poblano pepper, and confit of duck leg satisfies atop green lentils flecked with slices of homemade garlic sausage. Owner Barton G. Weiss's whimsy is still evident in dishes such as a tuna and roasted beet salad, whose latter component is presented as thin red and yellow checkerboard squares. And desserts are as showstopping as ever. Try grape jelly gelato flanked by two pyramids of peanut butter mousse; it's like the classic peanut butter and jelly sandwich re-imagined by a French Eskimo. Prelude's wine list is serious and extensive and offers some 90 labels in three portion sizes: a sampling of 1.5 ounces, a four-ounce pour, and a six-ounce pour. Service is strong, and the room is gorgeous. Best of all: Dine before 8 p.m. and assemble any three-course dinner from the menu for $39 (or any two items at lunch/brunch for $23). Ã la carte prices after that hour aren't bad either, and all entrées cost under $20. Call for reservations, because Prelude is in the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, and on performance nights, seatings are strictly timed.