Pascal's on Ponce

This modest 16-table room hasn't changed much since celebrated chef Pascal Oudin first opened its doors in 2000. The space is well-lighted and conspicuously clean - the walls freshly painted, linens neatly pressed, nosegays of unblemished roses blooming upon each table. The cuisine is equally bloomed and unblemished. Twisted spätzle-sized pearls of ethereal gnocchi come capped with oyster mushrooms, creamed with mascarpone cheese, and permeated with truffle oil. Country duck terrine is a gorgeous, glossy circle of meltingly luscious pté fatted with foie gras. Main courses on this small menu are likewise marked by meticulous preparation and robust, natural flavors. We especially enjoyed modestly portioned servings of marshmallow-sized diver scallops burnished with shreds of braised short-rib meat. Appetizers run $9 to $14, entrées $27 to $37.