Katsuya South Beach

At Katsuya, sea urchin, toro, jumbo clams, and kanpachi are a few of two dozen à la carte sushi and sashimi offerings. A platter of the latter brought two to three pieces each of a half-dozen fish: velvety dark bigeye tuna, small squares of salmon, thin fillets of yellowtail and halibut, slices of hokki clam, and ocean-fresh half-moons of scallop interspersed with lemon. More than two dozen robata grill items bring short skewers threaded with the vegetable, poultry, beef, or seafood of one's choice. The rest of the dining experience is like a plate of wasabi, pickled ginger, and soy: enhancing but not entrancing without the sushi.