Barley

Things have been rough since Jorgie Ramos flipped from the real-estate biz to restaurants. He has opened and closed one restaurant and been tied up in a host of legal headaches with his second. The place, now named Barley, an American Brasserie, specializes in the kind of gut-busting, beer-friendly classics Ramos has honed as his signature style over the years. His croquettes, laden with manchego cheese and serrano ham, have become the stuff of legend. Other dishes offer similarly aggressive flavors that would be even better with just some finesse and balance. The blue cheese, balsamic glaze, or bacon marmalade that coast crisp Brussels sprouts could be dropped to let the greens do their thing. Some more acid from his homemade chimichurri would make the unctuous pork cheek vaca frita sing. Keep an eye on this chef and his dishes, because the challenges that scuttle other people can't shake him.