We've got a doubleheader cooked up for this week's Cafe review. Here's a little lick of each:
Jackson Soul Food:
Like many other patrons in the room, we started with an insulated urn of freshly brewed coffee that's placed on the table. The menu contains à la carte dishes (oatmeal, waffles, and so forth), but most breakfasts consist of some combo -- either pancakes or French toast with choice of protein -- or eggs any style with grits or home fries, biscuits or toast, and choice of protein. It would be crazy, perhaps criminal, to choose toast over two square, homemade biscuits with a floury crust and moistly crumbed interior.
Skip the fried beef taquitos (too dry), tortas (too bready), and quesadillas (too bland). Hearty appetites should head straight for a chimichanga or burrito. The former features either shredded beef, chicken pastor, or steak carnitas wrapped in a large flour tortilla with refried beans and Monterey Jack cheese; the whole enchilada, er, chimichanga, is then deep-fried to crisp splendor. The carnitas version was delicious, especially when complemented with the sour cream, guacamole, and salsa served on the side.
2600 NW 87th Ave.
Jackson Soul Food
950 NW 3rd Ave.