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Sparky's Roadside Barbecue

The brisket sandwich — a freshly grilled bun piled with juicy slices of prime beef imbued with smoky glory and spice-rubbed flavor — is already legendary. The owners of Sparky's use a blend of some two dozen seasonings for the rub, and a mixture of young hickory and apple woods shipped in from Maine for the grill. The pulled pork sandwich, offering the same potent smoke and juice, is equally fetching. Try the smoked chicken thigh sandwich too: boneless and bursting with more luscious smoke-and-rub flavor. Sandwiches get plated with homemade coleslaw and waffle fries, while entrée plates come with a choice of two sides. Don't miss the baked beans, which boast a bacon-brown sugar-cumin flavor that elevates this dish above other renditions. The pork ribs are thick, meaty, and, like the other foods, cooked "low and slow" until tender. None of the items really requires barbecue sauce, yet it would be a shame not to sample at least a couple of the five or so daily homemade varieties. Try a starter, such as the fried sour dill pickle slices crisply crusted in cornmeal. Wash it all down with any of two dozen domestic microbrews. Homemade desserts include brownies, apple-blueberry pie, impeccably creamy banana pudding, and a fantastic coconut layer cake.

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