A staid strip-mall eatery in North Miami Beach, Portovino exudes the proper aura for a neighborhood red-sauce joint with solid, home-cooked Italian fare, friendly family service, and low, low prices remain intact. Skip the pizzas and start instead with a fresh and bountiful house salad. For the main course, most diners seem to delight in the house specialty of spaghettini with one of "21 sauces." More exotic picks stick out on the specials list, and on any given night might include polenta with rabbit cacciatore, or duck roasted with rosemary and garlic.
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