Meat Market

Andrew Meade
There is such a hubbub of activity spilling from the crowded entrance to the bustling bar (and raw bar) area to the dazzling dining room that Meat Market's climate and clientele meld into one dizzying, effervescently sexy scene. Plates of food pack a panoply of potent flavor combinations. Among the crudo selections, mahi-mahi gets spiked with jalapeño juice, tequila, and cilantro, while oysters on-the-half-shell are chaperoned (strong-armed?) by yuzu-truffle mignonette, atomic horseradish, and habanero cocktail sauce. Among hot appetizers, crispy crab tail is the most distinctive: a medallion-shaped flap pulled from Alaskan king crab and served as two tender scaloppine that have been bathed in egg batter and pan-fried and pooled in passion fruit butter sauce punched with sesame-and-aji-panca oil. Most folks, though, come here mainly for meat, and won't be disappointed with a center cut of wood-grilled New York steak - thoughtfully offered in full and half portions. A wide price range allows diners to choose from under-$30 options such as prime deckle steak prepared three ways, or from reserve cuts, which top out at $95 for a six-ounce A5 Kobe tenderloin, followed by a 30-ounce Harris Ranch bone-in New York steak ($84, for two). Either way, you'll get a great steak. Seafoods are no less impressive, and there are 21 side dishes; don't miss the Gouda-filled tater-tots. The wine list treads global terrain but covers more ground in the domestic region, with most of the big, steak-friendly reds going for $65 to $300 a bottle. Dining is expensive here, but this is one Market still worth investing in.