The draw here is Korean barbecue, do-it-yourself cooking with a variety of raw marinated meats to grill at the table. Here, an unassuming strip mall with blacked-out windows and a signless entrance creates a secret vibe — part of the calculated allure. Beyond the door lies a wait stretching 30 minutes past your reservation. Use this time to squeeze between women in stilettos and gaudy gold tights and order floral-scented cocktails that are strained into ivory-hued skull mugs. When you're finally seated, order any number of Asian-influenced tapas, such as twice-fried chicken with miso ranch dressing or steamed clamshell buns filled with torn duck confit and a square of crisp chicken skin.