The crew at Bon Gout BBQ arrives shortly after dawn to begin preparing brisket, ribs, and chicken for the barbecue, along with a bounty of Caribbean and soul-food sides. Here the secret is the epis: a Hatian seasoning base of onions, scallions, bell peppers, garlic, parsley, and spices, pulverized into a coarse paste that’s applied liberally to nearly everything. After several hours in the smoker, the epis dehydrates into a smoky crust with a sharpness that slyly balances out the meat’s fat. Don’t miss the griot — fat-rippled knobs of pork shoulder that emerge from the deep fryer with a burnished crust and a juicy interior. If you like, the meat can be lovingly tucked into a tortilla and crowned with the spicy fermented cabbage known as pikliz. Scoville Scale zealots can order Bon Gout’s extra-spicy pikliz, which combines the addictive fermented condiment’s funk with the fiery heat of what one would expect in Southeast Asia or the blistering pepper sauces of Trinidad. New Normal: Bon Gout’s barbecue travels well, the better to be enjoyed at home.