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Anise Waterfront Taverna

On most evenings, patrons flock to Anise's outdoor patio on the Little River. The view doesn't rival that of the Mediterranean, but the alfresco vibe does simulate the slapdash cheer of an informal Greek Isles eatery. Alas, the waterfront milieu turns out to be Anise's sole exceptional trait - meaning the taramasalata here is no different from that at any other Greek joint in town. Starter selections include spanakopita, saganaki, keftedes (meatballs), and grilled sausages, along with a larger catch of seafood choices: imported white anchovies, grilled sardines, bacalao croquettes, and tenderly grilled octopus. A tall tangle of teeny bait-like smelts were likewise fetching. Grilled Mediterranean sea bream (royal dorado) and Mediterranean sea bass (branzino) are fresh and flavorful if pricey for a modest neighborhood eatery ($26/$28). Anise delivers a laid-back, mostly pleasant dining experience, with a friendly staff serving basic (ethnic) comfort fare - but dinner is likely to cost $100-plus per couple.