The Spanish gastrobar Bulla (pronounced boo-yah) is younger, cooler, and better than ever. At the freestanding marble bar under the mahogany marquee, it's always time for a drink. Cocktails are delicious and fussy, infused with cardamom and currant syrup, lemongrass, and cucumber purée. Venture to the dining room, where chalkboards listing Spanish dishes swaddle blond-wood walls, to sample the small-plates cuisine. Doused in fried-tomato paste, albondigas — veal and pork meatballs — swim in milky stracciatella. Croquetas de jamón— golden bits of pinguid beauty — gleam beneath a thin fig jam glaze. Insider tip: Saturday and Sunday, Bulla offers a $28 three-course brunch. Try the decadent huevos Bulla — house-made potato chips topped with a jumbo organic egg, potato foam, thin slices of Serrano ham, and a prodigious drizzle of truffle oil.