The decade has seemingly flipped by faster than a griddlecake in midair: The Tenth Annual Mrs. Beeton Flapjack Flip-Off
is just around the corner (Mrs. B. being our patron saint for her
prescient in-print assertion, made 101 years ago, that pancakes "must
be regarded as somewhat beyond the capabilities of average digestive
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organs"). Leading up to next week's publication, Short Order will each
day highlight one of the five unwitting contestants. Today: Morgans Restaurant.
The Stars and Snubs Award is bestowed upon the Morgans Restaurant. A small selection of minipastries is brought to each table during weekend brunch, the sort of generous gesture generally good for generating a few extra Flip-Off points -- unless, of course, the only table not to get these pastries is that of the esteemed judge. A snub like this is much worse than pastries not being offered at all (the sound you hear is penalty flags hitting the ground). We ordered the regular pancakes rather than a signature raspberry-studded version in order to maintain consistency among the competitors. The four-stack of "flat cakes" was, indeed, flat; somehow many of this year's contestants omitted baking powder from their batters. Tasty? Check. Pleasant vanilla aroma? Check. Moist and tender? Check and check. Additional pluses include authentic maple syrup; softened butter; fresh, potently brewed coffee amiably and regularly refilled; and Louis Aguirre of Deco Drive fame. Louis became just the second supercelebrity to attend, if unwittingly, a Flapjack Flip-Off event; the first was Kyle MacLaughlin, who sat at a nearby Biltmore Hotel table with his wife the night after their wedding, during FF2. Star power is one of those intangibles that can only enhance a contestant's chances. On the other hand, I would have really liked one of those pastries.
Four (thin) pancakes, $10; coffee, $2. Total: $12 (by far the priciest stack).
The Morgans Restaurant
28 NE 29th St., Miami