We have grown comfortable with Ortanique since it opened "on the Mile" in July 1999. So much so that we tend to take it for granted. It's like a favorite pair of jeans forgotten in the drawer after you buy a succession of new shirts and jackets. Chef/owner Cindy Hutson's Caribbean-influenced "Cuisine of the Sun" never grows old. Cracked conch with plantain chips ($13), Red Stripe-steamed mussels ($14 small, $18 large), signature jerk chicken penne pasta ($17 lunch, $23 dinner), escovitch whole yellowtail snapper with Scotch bonnet pepper (market price), Bahamian mahi-mahi with lemon-orange boniato sweet plantain mash ($23 lunch, $30 dinner), West Indian-style bouillabaisse in curried coconut broth ($23 lunch, $45 dinner) — let's face it, you can't get this sort of fare anywhere else in town. The staff is warm, the décor is set in festive motifs of flowers and ortanique oranges, and the wine list has more gravitas than you'd expect from a modest neighborhood establishment. Cocktails rock too and are $4 off during happy hour (weekdays from 4 to 7 p.m.), which means $7 each. That sure is comfortable.