It's one of the great culinary success stories of our time — how the useless appendages of a bird about as capable of flying as an anvil became this incredibly popular thing to eat. Chicken wings are mostly skin, bone, and gristle, but their little meat is tender and succulent. They fry up nicely and take well to virtually any sauce you can imagine. House of Wings is the Michelangelo of chicken appendages, with some 50 sauces ranging from lemon-pepper-garlic to barbecue to curry to Jamaican jerk. For less than a buck apiece, they come grilled or fried. Go for fried. The joys of crisp-crunchy skin and juicy, well-seasoned flesh trump lard-filled arteries every time. You can either grab 'em to-go or hang out in the no-frills room, where sporting events play relentlessly on a multitude of TV sets.