Best Of :: Food & Drink
BEST MICROBREWED BEER Titanic Restaurant & Brewery 5813 Ponce de Leon Boulevard
305-667-2537 When he decided to dip his toe into the rapidly growing microbrewery pool, Kevin Rusk wasn't entirely sold on the concept. He took his time, did a ton of research, and was considering the ideal theme for such an establishment. At the time, his partner Keith Wyness was affiliated with the cruise ship industry. He promised to deliver busloads of thirsty tourists as long as they came up with a catchy tie-in with the cruise industry. Rusk decided to call the place Titanic. When he's asked, "How could you possibly decide to name a business after a disaster of that magnitude?" Rusk replies, with a twinkle in his eye, "I like it. I thought it had a good edge to it." He waxes eloquent about the history of the ship itself, of the labor that went into its creation. Then he explains, "This was intended as a celebration of this incredible feat, as opposed to its demise." Fans of this exceptional neighborhood bar certainly won't let this ship go under, not with such a wonderful selection of unique brews available for swigging. Titanic's brewmaster, Stephen Copeland, attended the Seibel Institute, one of only two brewery schools in America. Copeland and Rusk chose the recipes from classic, established beers of the world and experimented with the formulas to create six unique beers that remain fixtures at the bar. The Triple Screw Light Ale is their most popular by far, a German-style pale, golden elixir with a dry, tart finish and a 4+ percent alcohol content. Their strongest brew is the White Star India Pale Ale, a remix of classic English ale with a 7+ percent kick. Titanic's beers range from the palest of ales, to honey browns, to full-bodied stouts. Besides the six stars of the permanent lineup, Titanic offers seasonal varieties that leave regulars wanting more when those ales suddenly disappear. There are no current plans to increase the standard lineup, but there's plenty more to quench your thirst at this place. Titanic also brews up a delicious apple cider, offers a range of commercial draft and bottled beers, and a full liquor bar besides. Despite the bar's proximity to the University of Miami, Rusk is careful to distinguish his place from the typical college hangout. Titanic doesn't serve pitchers, the bartenders scrutinize ID cards carefully, and the ambiance is mature and tastefully decorated with the awards they have won along the way, including previous Best of Miami nods. In 1999 they won a Brewie Award and were named Best Start-Up at the National Brew Pub Conference. In 2000 they became the only brewery in the state to win a World Beer Cup award. Titanic regulars might also want to give Rusk and company an award for most considerate brewery. Titanic goes beyond the call, making regulars feel at home with the Mug Club, which, for a mere $85, entitles members to a high-quality Titanic Mug Club shirt or hat, a complimentary dinner every Wednesday, and their own engraved mug at the bar, to be filled with twenty ounces of cold, refreshing beer that can't be enjoyed elsewhere.
Personal best Marvin Woods of restaurant mwoods Chef Marvin Woods hails from New York and New Jersey and has worked at the top of the food world, from the SeaGrill at Rockefeller Center in New York City to Restaurant Danzon in Buenos Aires to the National Hotel in Miami Beach. Now ensconced in his NoMi namesake restaurant, Woods is the star and chief scene-stealer on TurnerSouth television's Home Plate Cooking: Everyday Southern Cuisine with a Fresh Twist.
The sassy, handsome Woods says his culinary inspiration stems from summers spent with relatives in the Southern U.S. and from South American, Caribbean, and African recipes.
Best month in Miami: For me it runs from the end of January to, like, May. Blue skies, no humidity? You can't get better weather. The reason I live in Miami is because of the weather. When we're at the peak of our season here, there's no better place to be.
Best reason to live in Miami: Besides the weather, I like the fact that it's close to the Caribbean and it's still on the East Coast. It's close enough that I can jump on a plane and be anyplace I'd like to be in just a couple of hours.
Best cheap thrill: Is there one? [laughs] Paninoteca on Lincoln Road [809 Lincoln Road, Miami Beach]. It's a European-style sandwicherie, and they do a really good job at what they do. I love sandwiches, they're kind of like my weakness. They're not that expensive; you can get a really good sandwich on the healthy side and be quite happy.
Best not-so-cheap thrill: China Grill [404 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach]. They do a great job, but they're a little bit expensive.
Best barbecue: It doesn't exist. I love barbecue. Last year I went to the annual barbecue festival in Memphis, and I saw how it's really done. It's the Super Bowl of barbecue. There are three days of this event, and 63 categories of barbecue, okay? I will give a prop to a place in Fort Lauderdale, Tom Jenkins Barbecue [1236 S. Federal Highway]. They do a decent job.
Best Caribbean restaurant: Ortanique on the Mile [278 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables]. They just do a really good job. Whenever I walk in the door, I'll get the special or whatever, and I'm never disappointed.
What culinary trends do you predict for the year 2020? I definitely think you're going to see more food inspired and influenced by Africa. That's what I do rigiht now. If you were to call up and ask what kind of food I do, we tell everyone New American. The reason we say that is because it's really easy, and a lot of other chefs are also using that term. What it allows you to do is work under this huge umbrella. But when you say American, what is our country made up of today? There are all kinds of different backgrounds. At my restaurant we have lobster, we have crabcakes, filet mignon, lamb -- all those things you'd get at an upscale gourmet restaurant. But when you see how it's prepared, the flavors are Caribbean and Southern and South American and African. I define all of that as food of the African diaspora. But there's no way I can put that out there right now, because I wouldn't get anyone in the restaurant. But I think as people travel and experience more, it's going to hit. Because you can only do Asian so many ways. Give me a freaking break now.
Bill Nunn -- the grizzly bear of an actor who played Radio Raheem in Spike Lee's Do the Right Thing (and has barreled through supporting parts in scores of other movies) -- takes a seat at the counter, simultaneously inhaling a croqueta and remarking about the lack of guava pastries which, because of the late hour, have run out for the day. Three seats are occupied by tipsy Brazilian beauties grooving to a tune audible only on their internal frequency. A garrulous air conditioner repairman talks about coming to Miami from Havana in 1994, his ex-wife, and his escape-prone albino ferret. The most handsome man on the planet sits quietly reading, oblivious to distractions. Two gentlemen on their way to Key West study the paper placemats at Puerto Sagua and ask, "Where's Cuba?"
Those guys must be from someplace really landlocked and far away, because Cuba is everywhere at Puerto Sagua -- in the grouper soup, in the flan, in the butter-soaked bread served with limes, and especially in the café con leche. Here the steamed milk is served without sugar and with the espresso in a tiny stainless steel urn on the side. Regular -- and fortunate -- patrons come under the care of Leticia, who reads the urgent need for caffeine on their faces and occasionally rewards her customers with an extra dollop of froth and mouthful of sweet, strong coffee. She and longtime nightshift co-workers Javier and Maria prefer to work quietly, eschewing idle chatter in Spanish and English, but they did have a little to say from their posts at one of Miami Beach's most unchanging landmarks.
Best seasonal or special event in Miami Beach: The South Beach Wine & Food Festival. Even after a day of eating and drinking, people still come over for dinner. It's strange, but maybe people want something simple after all the gourmet dishes.
Best reason to live in Miami: The weather. And the people, even though times have changed.
What do you see in the future for Miami Beach? More building, more traffic, but good things too. Places grow and change. We will still be here!
Best reason to live in Miami: The weather. And the people, even though times have changed.
BEST CHEF Norman Van Aken With this new item comes a new rule that applies to it alone: no repeats. Therefore, this being something of an informal Hall of Fame, who could we possibly choose as initial inductee other than Mr. Van Aken? If he weren't the best chef, we'd feel pretty silly for having crowned his fine-dining emporium with a record ten consecutive Best Restaurant in Coral Gables awards. And who are we to second-guess the James Beard Foundation, The New York Times, and all the others who have cited Van Aken as Miami's master modern mango man? Other great veteran chefs from the area -- Mark Militello, Allen Susser, Jonathan Eismann, Douglas Rodriguez, Robbin Haas -- can lay claim to having made important contributions to what we place under the umbrella of New Florida cuisine, but Van Aken's New World cooking most clearly represents the movement's apex. This thinking-chef's chef and multiple cookbook author has spread himself thin of late with new Norman's branches in Orlando and Los Angeles (and the late, lamented Mundo), but a meal at his flagship establishment still braces with brassy, intelligent elixirs of indigenous ingredients and global concepts. Congratulations, Norman, and we wish you many more a success to come.
"Hi! Have you been to Cold Stone before?" the chirpy server asks. If not, gear up for a delicious, frosty experience. You can go for the menu choices, predetermined confections of ice cream and candy with names like birthday cake remix, breathless Boston cream pie, mud pie mojo, cheesecake fantasy, and chocolate devotion, or you can forge your own yummy path. Besides the usual Neapolitan trinity, the Creamery boasts a fabulous variety of flavors: white chocolate, sweet cream, and cake batter for starters. Your server plops a hearty scoop of your chosen flavor down on the slab. Then the mix-ins. Candied treats like Heath, Butterfinger, Snickers, M&M's, apple pie filling, graham crackers, honey, marshmallows, cookie dough, yellow cake, caramel, pecan pralines, or multicolored sprinkles are among those available to adorn your iced treat. Served in a waffle cone or bowl, your made-to-order dessert tastes like candy-coated angels dancing on your tongue. With shops scheduled to open soon in Coral Gables and North Miami, it seems that there'll be a Cold Stone Creamery ready to soothe the summertime heat just about anywhere you go in the city.
Readers´ Choice: Cold Stone Creamery
Readers´ Choice: Cold Stone Creamery
"Thank God for tea! What would the world do without tea? -- how did it exist? I am glad I was not born before tea," British clergyman, writer, and wit Sydney Smith gushed about the leafy brew. And he was certainly right. Nothing warms the belly and soothes the soul quite like a cup of tea. In a nation of coffee drinkers, it seems like there's a Starbucks on every other block. Finding a lovely tea shop among the coffee klatch feels like a prize won. Théine is such a prize: a bright, welcoming nook that offers an astonishing variety of teas and tisanes. Sip hot cups of Indian Darjeeling, Japanese green, Chinese oolong, or South African rooibos. Or try a blend -- Mexican chai, vanilla cream, or Irish breakfast tea -- with a plate of the delectable nibbles the proprietress, Kyra White, whips up in the kitchen. Freshly baked muffins, madeleines, sticky date cups, biscotti, and oh -- the scones. Relish them with clotted cream and jam and stick out your pinky finger proudly to represent tea drinkers everywhere.
BEST RESTAURANT TO DIE IN THE PAST TWELVE MONTHS One Ninety Restaurants are like soldiers -- we often mourn their passing but are rarely surprised to hear about it. Soldiers, though, have a far better survival rate than restaurants. But One Ninety wasn't just another faceless statistic in the loss column. This bohemian bistro at NE Second Avenue and 46th Street could be deemed heroic in its bid to be a true community gathering ground, with local artists on the walls, local music on the stage, and fresh, tasty, affordable American fare on the plates. Sunday brunch here was the bomb. Alas, owners Alan and Donna Lee Hughes were unable to negotiate a reasonable rent increase with their evildoer landlord, and the neighborhood lost a gem. Some glass-half-full types might proclaim that One Ninety isn't a total goner -- chef Hughes will soldier on and we hope will get life support from South Beach when he brings a new One Ninety to the Albion Hotel. For residents of Miami, though, the old One Ninety will be sorely missed. In these parts, such places are harder to find than weapons of mass destruction.