Closer Look: El Atlacatl in Little Havana

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Wednesday, June 11, 2014 at 4 a.m.

Bill Wisser Pupusas 1/25

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Bill Wisser Pescado al Limon 3/25

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Bill Wisser Parrillada 6/25

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Bill Wisser Sopa de Pollo 8/25

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Bill Wisser Antojito Salvadoreno (Salvadorian Sampler) 10/25

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Bill Wisser From left: Enrique Napoleon Moreno Jr.; Karla Moreno; Chef Dimas Napoleon Moreno; Rosa Margarita Moreno; Flor Moreno; and Claudia Moreno. 22/25

Bill Wisser Chef Dimas Napoleon Moreno 23/25

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Closer Look: El Atlacatl in Little Havana

What makes this El Atlacatl different from all others? Nothing and everything. You'll find pupusas -Salvadoran tortillas filled with beans, cheese, and pork - alongside sweet tamales de elote and sopa de res or sopa de gallina.

The Moreno family, which owns this location, directly or indirectly owns a half-dozen other Salvadoran eateries across South Florida. The unofficial empire sprouted as family members gradually left their homeland and immigrated to Florida, bringing this institution along with them.

Today the orange-yellow restaurant with a Spanish-tiled roof and tiny parking lot is the hub of the empire.

See also: Our full review of El Atlacatl in Little Havana

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