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Vegetarian Restaurant by Hakin: Vegan Oasis with an Awkward Name

A customer talks with owner Hakin Hill.
A customer talks with owner Hakin Hill.
Camille Lamb

"You guys open every day?" asks a young woman at the restaurant counter while her restless four-year-old wanders about, picking up tubs of African Shea Butter and examining bins of natural chips.

"Every day except Saturday," answers owner Hakin Hill, his hair pulled back in a bulbous black Rastafari cap.

"The busiest day," scoffs the woman.

"Not here," Hakin answers calmly.


Things aren't all done by the book at Vegetarian Restaurant by Hakin

(yes, that's actually the name). The servers double (quintuple?) as

cooks, dishwashers, busboys, and clerks. There's no set order of

service; you may get your entrees before your silverware, for example,

and maybe no one will remember to ask you if you want something to

drink first. However, many starved Miami vegans may be prepared to make

these small sacrifices for the rare meatless gems found behind the

unobtrusive glass doors.

Absolutely everything on the menu is vegan. Well, make that everything on the white board

--- as yet another unorthodox element, the place actually has no

printed menus (Hakin says "they're coming this week"). So anyway, here,

cruelty-free eaters are eligible to enjoy Philly "cheese steaks,"

"fish" sandwiches, "short ribs," and many more mock meats (each $8.95),

made from seitan (a wheat gluten-based product) and tofu, and expertly

flavored with anything from ginger and fennel to seaweed (for the faux

fish). A dozen Short Order writers did a blind taste test of the

restaurant's "no bull" short ribs last week.

Hakin's magnificent meat- and dairy-free ackee empanada.
Hakin's magnificent meat- and dairy-free ackee empanada.
Camille Lamb

Camille Lamb
Hakin's magnificent meat- and dairy-free ackee empanada.

For veg heads who have chewed enough seitan for this lifetime, Hakin's

got a dish that's impossible to find elsewhere in Miami (except at Apple a Day, which buys its supply from Hakin). It's the savory pastries, empanada-like pies filled with ackee

(the national fruit of Jamaica, which has a scrambled egg-like taste),

spinach, soya, and yes, curried seitan. Our ackee-stuffed pie was

delivered piping hot, too hot to even taste upon the first bite. But as

it cooled, we were hit with the buttery flavor (we believe it's

not butter, but it's not easy!) of the thick whole wheat crust, and a

thick creamy blend of vegetables --- carrots, peas, corn, and ackee ---

reminiscent of a hearty legume soup.

Speaking of soups, the restaurant has those too, and we paired our pastry up with one: the garden vegetable.

The garden vegetable soup was surprisingly thick and hearty.
The garden vegetable soup was surprisingly thick and hearty.
Camille Lamb

Camille Lamb
The garden vegetable soup was surprisingly thick and hearty.

The

broth is a substantial potato puree with a robust, meaty flavor. Bits

of kale, carrot, yellow squash, and potato float in the mix. It made a

great complement to the ackee pie.

As we

excitedly sipped our soup, a lone diner to our right, a Jamaican-born

reggae musician by the name of Raga-Z, informed us that he eats at the

Caribbean- and vegetarian-themed restaurant nearly every day.

"I

try to stay away from dairy products because they're bad for your

voice," he said. "I need to protect that. And when I come in here, I'm

so inspired when I see the foods, 'cause I only know them from

Jamaica," he said.

Meanwhile, our next dish

arrived. Pancakes and "eggs" ($7.50 to $8.95) may seem like a

non-sequitur to our first courses, but in the spirit of disorganized

dining, we said screw it.

Vegan blueberry pancake and tofu scrambler, served with organic agave nectar in place of syrup.
Vegan blueberry pancake and tofu scrambler, served with organic agave nectar in place of syrup.
Camille Lamb

Camille Lamb
Vegan blueberry pancake and tofu scrambler, served with organic agave nectar in place of syrup.

The

blueberry pancakes had a nice, smooth consistency, not at all grainy or

heavily flax-flavored like a lot of vegan pancakes can be. They were,

however, too dry, and even the accompanying cup of organic agave nectar

wasn't enough to save them.

The tofu

scrambled "eggs," on the other hand, were the best we've ever had.

Spiced and colored with turmeric and cooked up with diced red and green

peppers, they were fluffy, flavorful, satisfying, and... gone.

A baker friend in the neighborhood supplies the shop with a host of

vegan cakes ($4 to $5 a slice), including coconut, pineapple,

chocolate, and carrot flavors. The house favorite, though, is the

tofu-based tiramisu, according to Edwin, a smiling employee of

Trinidadian descent.

We, however, had our

eyes on the muffins (about $4) in the case at the front of the shop

from the moment we walked in. These the restaurant makes in-house, in

an ever-changing array of flavors. Too full to eat one directly after

our meal, we take a zucchini, pineapple, cherry, and walnut one to go.

Later,

picking up the weighty muffin, we thought to ourselves, "Vegan or not,

this thing is way too big and heavy to eat in one sitting." Upon

breaking the baked good in two, however, large luscious chunks of

cherries and pineapple revealed themselves from the center.

Hakin's vegan muffins are stuffed with fresh fruit.
Hakin's vegan muffins are stuffed with fresh fruit.
Camille Lamb

Camille Lamb
Hakin's vegan muffins are stuffed with fresh fruit.

Considering

it was actually half fruit, we didn't feel so bad gobbling the whole

glorious thing down. Best vegan muffin ever --- leagues ahead of the

doughy blueberry ones Whole Foods puts out.

So what if the silverware isn't gleaming and the service is far from

seamless? True, it would be better if things were more uniform and

streamlined at Vegetarian Restaurant by Hakin. But those who appreciate

an eclectic, homey scene and inventive green food will enjoy a seat at

this unlikely vegan haven in North Miami Beach. Toast a glass of

Hakin's freshly extracted cucumber, green apple, wheatgrass, sunflower

green, and ginger juice, and chill to the meditation music while the

Caribbean crew cooks you a meal that nobody died for.

The restaurant is open 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday-Thursday, and 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday & Sunday.

Follow Short Order on Facebook and Twitter @Short_Order.

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miles
Vegetarian Restaurant by Hakin

73 NE 167th St.
Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160

305-405-6346

www.vegetarianrestaurantbyhakin.com


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