Steven Raichlen's Barbecue Bash at Books & Books
Hill Country brisket sandwiches.
Photos by Jacquelynn D. Powers
Fully sated, everyone moved into the store where Books & Books owner Mitchell Kaplan introduced the cookbook author thusly: "What Julia Child is to French cooking, Steven Raichlen is to barbecue." High, but deserved, praise indeed.
Raichlen's speech, which he is also delivering at the Smithsonian on Thursday night, spans two million years and multiple countries. His contention is that the advent of cooking over fire, which developed some 1.8 million years ago, led to the growth of the human brain, speech, changed social patterns and the division of labor. More recently, he cites the Greeks as having ritual pyres with animal sacrifice before battle as some of the globe's first planned barbecues.
Malaysian turmeric prawns.
Other history lessons pertaining to grilling included the first mention of the word "barbacoa," which clearly became the word for barbecue. This cooking technique was discovered by the Spanish in 1512 when they landed in what is now the Dominican Republic. Grilling spread throughout the New World, and George Washington was such an enthusiast that one of his barbecues lasted three days.
In the last century, Raichlen suggests that barbecuing moved from public spaces and into the home with the introduction of the highway system, rise of the suburbs and the invention of Weber home grills. Raichlen fits into this barbecue culture as the author of seven cookbooks pertaining to grilling. Novices may want to check out his first one, Barbecue Bible, before attempting some of the recipes in Planet Barbecue!
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