Sneak Review: Mandolin Aegean Bistro

A little meze to sample in advance of next week's New Times Café review.

Grilled yellowtail at Mandolin
Grilled yellowtail at Mandolin
Lee Klein

Mandolin performs straightforward cooking best, whether it be an

assertively grilled whole yellowtail -- its pristine white flakes primped

with lemon and olive oil -- or a sweet, tender curlicue of grilled

octopus misted with the same Mediterranean lubricants. Even chicken

kebab, which is usually just menu fodder for timid eaters, turned out

to be unexpectedly rousing -- five huge, juicy hunks of deliciously

grilled white meat enhanced further when dipped into a side dish of

tzatziki.

Mandolin Aegean Bistro
4312 NE Second Ave., Miami
305-576-6066


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