Sneak Review: De Rodriguez Ocean

Corvina with shellfish
Corvina with shellfish
Lee Klein

Morsels from next week's Cafe review of De Rodriguez Ocean:

Comfortably cushioned seats surround dark wooden tables; red votive candles, glassware, flatware, and salt/pepper shakers culled from the low-end pages of a Sysco catalogue sit atop. Dinner here is an expensive proposition -- ceviches $13 to $23, appetizers $10 to $18, salads $12 to $14, fish entrées $26 to $34, the only soup $15 (lobster bisque), and desserts $9 -- too pricey for such tacky table trappings. I imagine that an honest hotel concierge, upon being pressed by a guest as to what differentiates this D-Rod establishment from the highly attractive OLA and Cuba restaurants, might respond that Ocean is the ugly one.

De Rodriguez Ocean
101 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach

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