Pastrami on rye with coleslaw and a sweet-spicey mustard made in-house.
Pastrami on rye with coleslaw and a sweet-spicey mustard made in-house.

Josh's Delicatessen & Appetizing: The Love Comes Through The Surfside Eatery

By the time Joshua Marcus and his partners opened Chow Down Grill in Surfside during the spring of 2010, he had already exhibited his talents at a number of well-known Miami establishments, including La Sandwicherie, Timo, North One Ten, China Grill, and BLT Steak. Last year, Marcus debuted a second Chow Down Grill, in South Beach, and two months ago he converted the original Surfside location into Josh's Delicatessen & Appetizing. If this all seems a bit much to absorb, sit down and have a bowl of chicken matzoh ball soup.

The firm, almost-baseball-size matzoh ball at Josh's Deli is unique in that it's spiked with ginger beer and enriched by schmaltz culled from duck, not chicken, which makes for a much more flavorful sphere. The other components of the soup -- deep chicken stock, twirled egg noodles, and bits of carrots and celery -- captivate in a more customary fashion.

Décor differs little from the space's Asian incarnation: some tables are arranged by the storefront window, and a long counter occupies much of the remaining rectangular room behind it. The main change is that a wall in the dining area now hosts framed photos of old-time comedians with faux autographs scrawled on each -- like in classic Noo Yawk delis (Marcus hails from New York's Westchester County).

Not even big-city delicatessens are as authentic as Josh's, which boasts Josh himself, who at times runs the restaurant as a one-man show. You will never see a Carnegie delivering knishes to the table at the Carnegie Deli.

Read the review of Josh's Delicatessen & Appetizing.
View photos of Josh's Delicatessen & Appetizing.

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