Eating House: Hearty Lunch for Vegetarians
Sandwiches come wrapped and ready to go at Eating House.
All photos by Laine Doss
Many people -- even dyed-in-the-wool carnivores -- don't choose a meat-laden lunch. Maybe it's because of the fear of an afternoon torpor that stunts any creative work time; maybe it's the thought of a decadent over-the-top dinner that leads people to eat a vegetarian midday meal.
In any event, a no-meat lunch usually consists of "interesting" and "creative" options like salads and hockey-puck-inspired veggie burgers. That is, unless you're ordering lunch at Eating House.
It's during the midday meal that sous-chef Adriana "Lip" Egozcue takes over the kitchen and serves one of the most soul-satisfying vegetarian meals you'll encounter.
For starters, watermelon with sriracha and lime ($4) gives you the refreshment and crunch of the sweet melon with a bite of spice and citrus. Normally, a bowl of watermelon for an appetizer is as interesting as, well, a bowl of watermelon. But a simple twist, like the addition of sririacha and lime, elevates the dish to something crave-worthy. In fact, my dining companion and I fought over the pink chunks of fruit flesh and contemplated whether to order another serving.
Broccoli cheese steak ($10) sounds a little confusing -- so we asked about it. The answer intrigued us. No, there is no meat in this sandwich. Instead, charred broccoli is the main component, along with plenty of fontina cheese and pickled onions. Everything is served on a soft hoagie. The sandwich is filling and addictive -- something we would find ourselves craving on a regular basis. Bonus: This sammie is enormous and sharable, especially when combined with the watermelon or a side of lentil tabbouleh ($5), and sparkling or still bottled water is free with lunch, making Eating House an affordable option for those on a budget.
The menu changes frequently, so consult the Eating House website for what's being served today. When we visited, other meatless options included a young kale salad with Parmesan vinaigrette ($12) and chilled corn soup with black truffle cream ($7). Carnivores needn't feel left out, with options such as a choripan with kielbasa, onion, and chimmichurri ($13) and a grilled chicken sandwich on cibatta with romaine and Greek yogurt ($12).
Eating House serves lunch weekdays from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Get the Dining Newsletter
The week's top local food news and events, plus interviews with chefs and restaurant owners, dining tips, and a peek at our print review.