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  • Article

    Teutons of Fun

    Viewed from Collins Avenue Treffpunkt Biergarten might appear intimidating. The year-old German seafood-and-steak house squats in the parking lot of the R.K. Sunny Isles Plaza, framed by an extensive strip mall. A large square building, the restauran...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 25, 1995
  • Article

    Mission Impala

    As a South Beach resident, I know how it goes: The old hotels and storefronts on a major strip -- Ocean Drive, say -- are renovated. Rents skyrocket, forcing out the kosher butchers, the shoe repair shops, the family-run drugstores and bodegas that h...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 18, 1995
  • Article

    Sol Food

    Like the Honda convertible of similar name, Cafe del Sol has plenty to do with the sun. Opened in early February, the restaurant replaced the Terrace Cafe in the lobby of the Crowne Plaza Miami (formerly the Omni) as part of a nine-million-dollar ren...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 11, 1995
  • Article

    In Cod We Trust

    I've had a fondness for British pubs ever since I worked in one in California, even though that experience wasn't wonderful. The hours were long, the tips were horrendous, and the manager, who called me Jenny (a name I've always despised), gave out m...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 4, 1995
  • Article

    To Gnome Is to Love Me

    Yvonne Helmick may not have done herself a favor in naming her five-month-old Kendall Plaza (on U.S. 1 south of Dadeland) bistro Food by Trolls. Most Americans, after all, think of trolls as malformed creatures that live under bridges and practice ex...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 27, 1995
  • Article

    Oui, Oui

    I wasn't surprised in the health-conscious Eighties when rich, fattening French cuisine fell out of fashion. Nor am I shocked that with today's retro fascination with steak and potatoes, French restaurants are popping up all over subtropica. Yet the ...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 20, 1995
  • Article

    Served Right

    The recent decline in formal restaurant service has alarmed many a food connoisseur, including Andy Birsh, whose column in the March issue of Gourmet addresses what the author calls "the unwritten agreement that might be said to exist between present...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 13, 1995
  • Article

    Familiarity Breeds Contentment

    Leaf through just about any magazine and you'll likely find at least one article that begins "There is...." As a sometime teacher of composition and literature, I can't help but be disgusted by the predominance of what New York Times Magazine columni...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 6, 1995
  • Article

    Spleen Cuisine

    As dining in the Planet Hollywood-dominated Nineties continues to be more about entertainment and less about food, kitschy "theme" restaurants are all the rage. Two such New York City eateries are so hip they've drawn national attention: Jekyll & Hyd...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 30, 1995
  • Article

    Seville Servile

    Diego's Restaurant ought to be the quintessence of Spanish dining in Coral Gables. The four-month-old restaurant possesses all the elements: a wide-ranging menu highlighting the various regions of Spain; an extensive wine list heavy on the Riojas; a ...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 23, 1995
  • Article

    Coal, Coal Heart

    Like a cat, a good theater piece enjoys more than one incarnation: Long after the first run has ended, a new director, cast, and crew come along and stage a revival, often with great success. Apply the revival theory to a restaurant and you've got Em...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 16, 1995
  • Article

    Billy, Don't Be a Zero

    I've become so accustomed to restaurants moving into Miami from elsewhere that when an eatery moves out of our city, I'm surprised. I'm doubly astonished when said business is Billy's Stone Crab & Seafood Restaurant. Folks around here knew it as the...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 9, 1995
  • Article

    Posh Nosh

    I've been lax. It's taken me a year too long to publicly appreciate the Grand Cafe, the restaurant in the Grand Bay Hotel (the most luxe lodgings in the city). And the reason has been pique, pure and simple: I was offended by an article in last June'...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 2, 1995
  • Article

    Not Just Another Pretty Fez

    I'm always impressed by a restaurant that has worked its way up from humble roots. Oggi Cafe and Deli, for instance, which started as a handmade pasta distributor, selling to upscale Coral Gables and South Beach trattorias. Then owner Eloi Roy used h...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 23, 1995
  • Article

    A Clean, Well-lighted Plate

    If the contents of a person's refrigerator provide a glimpse into his or her culinary mindset -- and I believe they do -- then it's also fair to say a restaurant's decor reveals a lot about its proprietor's predilections. Perhaps that's why I felt re...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 16, 1995
  • Article

    Venice, Anyone?

    The restaurants on Ocean Drive still have the capacity to surprise me. Just when I think I know what to expect -- mediocre fare, lousy service, wide-eyed tourists -- a place like Pane Caldo Ristorante Italiano comes along and quiets my instinctive di...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 9, 1995
  • Article

    Learning Curve

    A typical criticism of postsecondary education is that it proves impractical in the real world: Cramming for a Rocks for Jocks final does little to prepare one for an entry-level position in today's crowded job market. A compromise for those who...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 2, 1995
  • Article

    Raleigh Once Again

    This town has a special fondness for the Raleigh, a restored 1940s Art Deco landmark that offers some of the only deluxe accommodations on South Beach. I know people who recommend the hotel to overnight visitors just so they can join them for a cup o...

    by Jen Karetnick on January 26, 1995
  • Article

    Hands Across the Water

    Enduring marriage of one national cuisine to another requires a three-step process: an honest introduction to an uneducated public; an adjustment or adaption of traditional recipes (in order to replace hard-to-find ingredients with comparable indigen...

    by Jen Karetnick on January 19, 1995
  • Article

    Just Getting Tarted

    Every family has its culinary quirks, and mine is no exception. We all like the fruit that fills our apple pies and other pastries to be soft and melty. If we want crisp fruit, we eat it raw. But baked, it should be just the opposite. Otherwise why b...

    by Jen Karetnick on January 12, 1995
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