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  • Article

    The Accidental Tourist

    I don't ever want to be mistaken for a tourist in this town. Unless I'm on Ocean Drive, in which case I don't want to be mistaken for a local. On Ocean Drive, tourists have the advantage. They don't get asked for directions. They don't get annoy...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 30, 1995
  • Article

    With Sick You Get Egg Roll

    As a young girl, I was sick frequently enough that my mother and I developed a ritual: On the way home from the doctor's office, pockets full of penicillin, we would stop off at a little Cantonese place around the corner. Forget chicken broth. Strep ...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 23, 1995
  • Article

    O Ye of Little Feta!

    I'm watching The Sound of Music for the zillionth time, and I'm craving Greek cuisine. Okay, I know edelweiss are hardly reminiscent of olive trees, even when they're in bloom. And I'm perfectly aware that while the Von Trapp children may sing a...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 16, 1995
  • Article

    Cyan Aura

    In a recent Vogue magazine article, hotelier Ian Schrager told writer Charles Gandee that his newly renovated property, the 238-room Delano Hotel, "has zero to do with South Beach -- absolutely zero. I wouldn't invest millions of dollars based upon t...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 9, 1995
  • Article

    Ostrich Comes to Las Olas

    First-time restaurateurs Michael Edges and James Sands didn't intend to situate their South African eatery on Las Olas Boulevard. Their concept, they felt, was ideal for the Miami market, where funkiness is unquestionably embraced. But rents were too...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 2, 1995
  • Article

    Nibbling Rivalry

    I met a chef for dinner at Two Sisters Restaurant. A happy coincidence, which I discovered when I got there: He had helped open the restaurant in 1987. Glancing around the stately stone and marble dining room, accented by a square bar at one end and ...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 26, 1995
  • Article

    Know Matter

    When it comes to eating out, I'm a trouble magnet. If there's food to be dropped, it'll be my dinner that hits the floor. If there's water to be spilled on someone's lap, my lap will be the one drenched. A reservation gets lost? That'd be mine, too. ...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 19, 1995
  • Article

    Road Works

    "Wow. This really sucks." My companion gazed at the brokenscape that is now Lincoln Road: muddy rubble where red sidewalks once were, chicken wire and barricades to keep pedestrians at bay, hardhat-yellow heavy machinery parked everywhere. "When did ...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 12, 1995
  • Article

    Can't Twin 'Em All

    When an established restaurant opens a branch, habitues of the original location quite naturally anticipate an equivalent culinary experience at the new address. I never actually reviewed Las Rias Gallegas, a budget Spanish seafood restaurant in C...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 5, 1995
  • Article

    Bake the Grade

    I've learned English composition from teaching assistants. I've had my teeth cleaned by dental interns. I've had my hair styled by beauticians-in-training. So I guess it was no great stretch for me to entrust my appetite to culinary school students. ...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 5, 1995
  • Article

    Asia Consent

    Soon after I learned to read, I discovered that good food makes good words taste even better. From then on, I could never thoroughly enjoy a book without a snack in hand, and the two pastimes -- reading and eating -- became inexorably linked in my mi...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 21, 1995
  • Article

    Irish Lite

    A friend of mine who'd just returned to the States from Dublin warned me that Murphy's Law Irish Pub & Restaurant is a pseudo-pub. An impostor. I could see what he meant: The design of the place, located on McFarlane Road next door to Senor Frog...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 14, 1995
  • Article

    Simon Settles

    I've heard Kerry Simon thinks I hate him. If he harbors that suspicion, it's probably due to the unfavorable opinions I expressed in these pages about Starfish, the restaurant he launched with partner Debbie Ohanian in 1993. But really, it's nothing ...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 7, 1995
  • Article

    Them's Good Eden!

    Before my visit earlier this month, the last dinner I'd ingested in one of the musty restaurants in Miami Beach's landmark Eden Roc Resort & Spa was Glatt kosher Chinese. No pork or shellfish in any of the dishes, just a plethora of garlicky, peppere...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 31, 1995
  • Article

    Viva Zapata's

    Zapata's Place slugs the front of its menu with this slogan: "The First Authentic Mexican Gourmet Food in Florida." That's a pretty bold claim for this North Miami newcomer to make. Surely somewhere in Florida there's an honest-to-goodness gourmet...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 25, 1995
  • Article

    Yuca Look It Up

    Douglas Rodriguez is the man. He's a player. He's got it goin' on. The former Yuca chef-partner and originator of nuevo cubano cuisine could have easily suffered from small fish/big pond syndrome when he left the restaurant in 1993 to start his o...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 17, 1995
  • Article

    Don't Eat It Raw

    The Old Cutler Oyster Co. & Raw Bar (O.C.'s to its many fans) may be the most delayed comeback story in the annals of Hurricane Andrew lore. The family-style seafood restaurant was a five-year-old storefront in the Old Cutler Towne Center before bein...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 10, 1995
  • Article

    Once Again with Nando

    A restaurateur often experiences an understandable preoccupation with his restaurant, particularly if he spends every minute nurturing it, christens it with his own name, or takes dramatic steps to prevent its death. Should he choose (or be forced) t...

    by Judy Cantor on August 3, 1995
  • Article

    A Japanese Reprries

    New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl kicked off a recent food/travel piece about Chinese food in Los Angeles's San Gabriel Valley with the words, "It is Friday night and I have just eaten my twelfth meal in 36 hours. I'm a little full and sor...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 27, 1995
  • Article

    Good for What Iles You

    Bad luck breaks over me like a South Florida thundercloud. My skies could be clear for months at a time and then wham! A car accidents, leaky roofs, insurance hikes, and appetite-threatening diseases will rain down with gale-force intensity, cramming...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 13, 1995
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