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  • Article

    'Scope Springs Eternal

    Despite vultures, despite tourists, despite conventions galore, I look forward to the winter season for one reason: Important new restaurants, most of which have been remodeling, writing menus, and hiring staff for months, finally open to the public....

    by Jen Karetnick on December 5, 1996
  • Article

    A Bloom of One's Own

    "You have a great job," acquaintances declare when they find out what I do. "You're so lucky!" "Yup," I agree unequivocally. Then they turn to my husband. "And do you get to go along?" "Of course," he nods. "I wouldn't let her go without ...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 28, 1996
  • Article

    Deli Dancing

    I'm a sucker for gossip, which is the sole reason I maintain a subscription to the West Essex Tribune, my hometown paper. These past weeks I've gotten a good eyeful -- letters to the editor and editorials about Don's, the landmark eatery in Livingsto...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 21, 1996
  • Article

    The Song Remains the Same

    As long as I've lived in this town, I've felt guilty for not being Latin. Don't get me wrong. It may have taken my entire adolescence, but I did learn to love my identity -- my Jewishness, my femaleness, my Eastern European ancestry, my northeast...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 14, 1996
  • Article

    Fear of Flying

    I have this recurring nightmare, which always seems to hit me when I'm about to go out to a restaurant I'm almost positive will be very good: I dream I'm a P.R. flak paid to bang out praise, nothing but praise, about every joint in town. I told ...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 7, 1996
  • Article

    Tex-Mex Times Two

    South Beach's Mex Mess Cantina Mexicana and Southwestern Cafe and Tita's became inexorably linked in my mind when they opened within months of each other last year. Both have Mexican-sounding names -- the latter refers to the character from Lara Esqu...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 31, 1996
  • Article

    Poetry to the Palate

    This week I asked my elementary school creative writing students to compose a haiku about their favorite food. I explained to them that because haiku are so short -- three-line poems with five syllables in the first line, seven in the second, and fiv...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 17, 1996
  • Article

    Remember the Mein

    After dining at the month-old Chinese restaurant Wok & Roll, I've spent an agonizing week. Not that the fresh fare prepared by two-time Chaine des Rotisseurs (the French culinary society) award-winning chef Michael Choi wasn't delicious, the service ...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 10, 1996
  • Article

    Doggie Bag Blues

    I often write about my mother, who passed on to me the fine points of fine dining. But I've neglected to mention the impression my father made upon me early in my childhood, which molded me into the good eater I am today. My father is a practica...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 3, 1996
  • Article

    Azure Thing

    I've been irresponsible. For the past few years I've been throwing around the term pan-Asian to label trendier restaurants that utilize Far Eastern ingredients (usually a combination of Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, and Japanese). You've probably figure...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 26, 1996
  • Article

    Gut Filling

    As I see it, women and restaurants are alike in exactly one way: Once they earn a reputation, they've got it for life. Only it's usually "bad" women who can't shake public disdain, and "good" restaurants that never fall out of public favor even if th...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 19, 1996
  • Article

    Mexican Standoff

    "The thing I miss most about waitressing," I told a friend not too long ago, "is the exercise." Having spent her fair share of time dishing the fish, my friend heartily agreed. She never needed to go to the gym or watch what she ate while she wa...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 12, 1996
  • Article

    Simon's Symbiosis

    In a previous life, when I wrote for a travel magazine, I kept up a running argument with one of the advertising sales representatives. "Without the revenue I bring in, you wouldn't have a job," she'd tease after locking up an account such as America...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 5, 1996
  • Article

    Food for a Song

    I'm a sucker for reunions, and this summer I attended a rather offbeat one -- the get-together celebrating the 60th anniversary of the New England Music Camp. I spent three consecutive summers of my adolescence there on the shores of Lake Messalonske...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 29, 1996
  • Article

    Fish Fulfillment

    I was born into a family of suburban fishermen. On weekends, vacations, and holidays while I was growing up, my father, brother, and sister liked nothing better than to drop a line into the water. They were pretty good at it, too. Show them a fast-ru...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 22, 1996
  • Article

    Meat Don't Fail Me Now

    I phoned Las Pampas Argentinian Steak and Pasta House, a two-month-old restaurant on Biscayne Boulevard in North Miami. "Are you open?" I inquired. A reasonable question: It was a Monday night, and some restaurants in that neighborhood of strip malls...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 15, 1996
  • Article

    Pate Favor

    In the movie Big, Tom Hanks plays a young boy who is granted his fervent wish to be a grownup, treating the audience to scene after scene of a twentysomething man scouting out toy stores, engaging in food fights, and decorating his apartment with pin...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 8, 1996
  • Article

    Les Deux Faux Pas

    I've been accused of writing this column out of spite. She harbors a secret, unfulfilled wish to own a restaurant, some gossips whisper, and that's why she can be so hypercritical. She's jealous. Truth is, I would like to own a restaurant. B...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 1, 1996
  • Article

    Live Free or Dine

    July is the month for celebrating the existence of America, and I'm all for it. I like where I live. I like the principles on which the United States was founded. I've always believed in the strength of diversity and individualism, and though some of...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 25, 1996
  • Article

    Quien Es Mas Nacho?

    Writing about food is a lot like writing about fashion: You know a new trend is going to be unveiled in the fall, but you can't always predict what it will be. As an observer, you can comment on it, note its good points and bad. As a consumer, you're...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 18, 1996
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