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  • Article

    Johnny on the Spot

    For months I'd watched that banner flap enticingly above the Alton Road storefront. Bold red script promised Johnny V's Kitchen would open soon, offering Killer Hoagies and vegetable wraps. Frankly, it was the wrap part that caught my attention...

    by Victoria Pesce Elliott on July 16, 1998
  • Article

    Family Planning

    A friend recently filled me in about the oily origins of bruschetta. It seems that official olive oil tasters roaming the Umbria region of central Italy years ago were getting a little nauseated dipping directly into huge vats of the pungent stuff, s...

    by Steve Capellini on July 9, 1998
  • Article

    Wait of the World

    Tung Nguyen came to the United States in 1975, one of seventeen Vietnamese refugees sponsored by Kathy Manning through the St. James Lutheran Church in Coral Gables. Five years later the two women opened Hy Vong (which means "hope") on Eighth Street....

    by Lee Klein on July 2, 1998
  • Article

    The Thrill of the Grill

    South Florida-based cookbook author Steven Raichlen's office looks pretty much like you'd expect. Located in a rectangular cottage behind the Coconut Grove house he shares with his publicist wife Barbara Seldin Raichlen, the office features an entire...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 25, 1998
  • Article

    Recipes

    Balinese Fish Mousse Sates Sate lilit rank among the most exquisite of Indonesia's sates. Their birthplace is Bali, where they are used in and served at religious festivals. To make them, delicate mousse is flavored with explosively aromatic spic...

    on June 25, 1998
  • Article

    French Provincial

    France today possesses what is probably the most intelligent collective palate. [Whatever] France eats she does it with a pleasure, an open-eyed delight quite foreign to most people.... There is a gusto, a frank sensuous realization of food, that is ...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on June 18, 1998
  • Article

    Speed Limits

    Walk into the food court of your average mall and you can order fast Chinese, fast Mexican, fast Italian, fast Middle Eastern. There are certain cuisines, however, that have stubbornly refused to become fast. Indian cooking, with its intricate tapest...

    by Steve Capellini on June 11, 1998
  • Article

    Second Coming

    In South Florida chefs sometimes mimic the occupational track of major league baseball managers. Get fired from or quit one team/restaurant, hire on at another, then another, and occasionally even wind up back where you started. In 1996 chef-propriet...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 4, 1998
  • Article

    Remembrance of Cuba Past

    As sons and daughters of exiles, some members of the first generation of Cuban Americans to be raised in Miami no doubt feel somewhat cheated -- especially those sensitive artist types. Some can't read, write, or speak Spanish as well as their parent...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 28, 1998
  • Article

    Here Comes the Neighborhood

    South Beach neighborhoods are not born. They're made. Witness the latest area to catch developers' fancy: The triangle of land wedged west of Alton Road, north of the Venetian Causeway, and east of Biscayne Bay is quite literally on the rise. One con...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 21, 1998
  • Article

    Native Sons

    "Miami is a big city but a small town," observes Jake Klein, the 26-year-old chef-proprietor of the new South Miami restaurant JADA. He is referring to the six-degrees-of-separation phenomenon that seems to dog him. Only in Klein's case (he's the "JA...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 14, 1998
  • Article

    Broken English

    Here's a deeply flawed syllogism. Major premise: Miami is known for its Spanish-speaking population. Minor premise: I live in Miami. Erroneous conclusion: I speak Spanish. Here's the unvarnished truth: Miami has many Spanish-speaking residents. ...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 7, 1998
  • Article

    Selective Service

    Talk about your cross-cultural referencing. For a textbook example of good ol' American capitalism in action, look no further than the local Italian restaurant scene. Approximately a dozen new caffes and trattorias open here each year, more than half...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 30, 1998
  • Article

    Afternoon Delights

    I've learned not to take too seriously anything that comes my way via the Internet. Petitions, virus hoaxes, chain letters -- not only are they not worth reading, but I would never, as suggested, mail the garbage to everyone I know. But then the...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 23, 1998
  • Article

    Divina Intervention

    Alejandro Garcia, co-owner of the six-week-old Mexican restaurant Divina, understands that a menu should be more than a utilitarian way to convey information. He realizes that a menu's look, its presentation, its feel contribute significantly to a pa...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 16, 1998
  • Article

    Under the Weather

    Thank El Nino for providing us with an all-purpose scapegoat. The unusually potent storms associated with the weather phenomenon have wreaked havoc all over the country, handing us a ready excuse for just about everything. Late to work again? It's El...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 9, 1998
  • Article

    Going Dutch

    "There's no such thing as Dutch food," an acquaintance informed me when I mentioned I was on my way to Kendall's Goodies from Holland Cafe, a Dutch market and restaurant. "Holland's got beer and cheese -- that's it. All I do when I go there on busine...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 2, 1998
  • Article

    Coming Up Roses

    Newly licensed drivers are accidents waiting to happen. At least that's how insurance companies think of them. In theory, the fewer miles a driver has logged, the more likely he or she is to err on the road and damage persons or property. So companie...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 26, 1998
  • Article

    Guess Who's Coming to Dinner

    A funny thing happened on my way to becoming a restaurant critic -- friends stopped inviting me over for dinner. It didn't happen gradually or politely. One day I was a welcome guest who always brought a bottle of wine; the next I was persona non gra...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 19, 1998
  • Article

    No Spain, No Gain

    My office mail has been especially interesting lately. In a letter that he penned completely in French, a chef by the name of Charles Salliou recommended a Sunny Isles restaurant called Cafe Vicko. Salliou had no way of knowing, though he might have ...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 12, 1998
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