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  • Article

    Dish - Pickles in Paradise

    This may come as a surprise, but it's not all Elian all the time on the radio. Sometimes there's even talk of food, for instance on Linda Gassenheimer's WLRN-FM (91.3) show, Food News and Views, on which I was a guest the other day. That's when a you...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 6, 2000
  • Article

    On the Mark - Mark's South Beach

    The first impression was the worst. I'm not talking about the creamy white interior of the refurbished Nash Hotel. That was the second impression. The third would be the restaurant itself, Mark's South Beach, and how the walk downstairs to a sleek, c...

    by Lee Klein on March 30, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Not So Hot Spots

    March is not Black History Month. March is not Women's History Month, Breast Cancer Month, Secretaries' Month, or Grandparents' Month. It's not even Spring Break Month, not really. It can't be, because March is Miami Media Blitz Month. Take a look ...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 30, 2000
  • Article

    Dazed and Infused - Aura

    As a food writer, my best moment this millennium came during an interview with chef Andrea Curto last month, when I asked for the usual sound-bite definition of her dishes at SoBe's Wish. "Fusion," she declared immediately, "because that way I can co...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    The Pelican Briefly - Pelican

    The Pelican Hotel on Ocean Drive has 25 uniquely themed rooms, from the safari-designed "Me Tarzan, You Vain," to the sparser "Jesus Christ Megastar," which, if nothing else, is the only hotel room to ever advertise with the slogan "A man's life cons...

    by Lee Klein on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Good and Kosher

    If you've ever wondered what kosher really means, check out the following joke, in which Moses speaks to God from atop Mount Sinai: God: And remember, Moses, in the laws of keeping kosher, never cook a calf in its mother's milk. It is cruel. Mose...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Kudos and kvetches

    When it comes to Oggi Caffe in North Bay Village, we just can't get enough. Fortunately for us, proprietors Alex Portela and Eloy Roy, who also run Caffe Da Vinci in Bay Harbor Islands, agree. They're currently in the process of opening a second Oggi...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 23, 2000
  • Article

    The Frill Is Gone - Atlantic

    "Never give a sucker an even break" is, I believe, the philosophical impetus propelling the recent rash of "consulting chefs" that has been spreading rapidly in these parts. This public-relations ploy is akin to culinary karaoke, wherein one chef or ...

    by Lee Klein on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Sail On Sushi - BlueSea

    In SoBe it's easy to get spoiled when it comes to sushi. Great grub of most other Asian nations isn't easy to find in Miami, but visiting know-it-alls from New York, or even Asian food mecca San Francisco, are unusually impressed by my Japanese-food ...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Time to Walk

    I was roaming through the open forum (a chat room) at Epicurious.com, a Website for foodies sponsored by Cond Nast publications, where the majority of messages were predictably upbeat and enthusiastic. Then I came across what I thought was a pretty ...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Ethiopian at last and Thai Toni, take three

    You've inquired about it. You've begged for it. You've demanded it. And now you've got it: our first-ever Ethiopian restaurant. A Taste of Ethiopia has opened at 1072 NE 167th St., in North Miami Beach, a culinary mecca that has become the most ethni...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 16, 2000
  • Article

    Big Fish, Take Four - Big Fish

    There were two undying rumors about Big Fish back when I moved to Miami six years ago. One was that this renovated shack-complex-turned-restaurant on the Miami River had once dispensed the best cheapo fish sandwich in town. Wait: "Best"? Legendary! M...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on March 9, 2000
  • Article

    Paris on the Beach - L'Entrecote de Paris

    The small, cluttered, always crowded L'Entrecote de Paris debuted on Washington Avenue, just south of Fifth Street, in 1993. The restaurant seemed old from the start, in a good way, as though it had been there forever. That was part of its appeal. Mu...

    by Lee Klein on March 9, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - The Truth About Parrilladas

    Well, you could have fooled me. In fact you did. I believed the recent countywide proliferation of parrilladas -- Argentine steak houses -- was a natural outgrowth owing to several factors. First, fresh, uncooked Argentine beef, which had been...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 9, 2000
  • Article

    In Cod We Trust - Tasca Lisboa

    I have never dipped my feet into the cool blue waters of Portugal, but I did once put them in my mouth by suggesting to a Portuguese fellow that his national fare was pretty much the same as Spain's. His brief but emotional lecture enlightened me as ...

    by Lee Klein on March 2, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Heeeeere's Johnny V

    As it turns out, former Astor Place chef Johnny Vinczencz isn't only a terrific chef, he's a good sport. His response to my "Where's Johnny V?" bulletin in "Side Dish" led to an Internet correspondence. In exchange for a brewski at the fashionably un...

    by Jen Karetnick on March 2, 2000
  • Article

    Blended Family - Molina's Restaurant

    In terms of cultural crossovers, few cities have got anything over Miami. There is, of course, the music, which often mixes Latin, Afro-Caribbean, and rock roots. And the city's two primary tongues, which for better or worse have produced hybrids suc...

    by Jeanne DeQuine on February 24, 2000
  • Article

    From Rags to Ragus - Rosinella Italian Trattoria

    Tonino Doino grew up in Italy, quite poor, yet as the story goes, he would become the first person to resign from the waitstaff of Bice in New York City. The reason that no waiter before him had ever considered quitting is probably because each was e...

    by Lee Klein on February 24, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Saying Grace over Life's Food

    Okay, relax, this is not a public-service announcement. But imagine, just for a minute, having AIDS. The weakness, the fatigue, the constant infections -- you own them. What you don't own is what's necessary for an immune-deficient body to fight th...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 24, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Stormin' Norman

    I'm not the only one drenched in bad feelings about Bamb, apparently. A source told me that Bamb owner Karim Masri sent consulting chef Norman Van Aken an e-mail saying Masri wasn't going to pay Van Aken, who has placed his personally trained prot...

    by Jen Karetnick on February 24, 2000
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