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  • Article

    Here's Cooking at You - Moroccan Nights

    I've lately found myself insisting, to whomever will listen, that when it comes to dining in ethnic restaurants I'm no nitpicking stickler for authenticity; I simply wonder why those who serve watered-down, clownlike mockeries of such cuisines even b...

    by Lee Klein on June 8, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Closed for Business

    At first glance it looks as though this year's season claimed more than its share of restaurant victims. Of the places that went out of business in recent months, several of them appeared to be high-end, well-funded untouchables: Mayya, Thoa's on Pon...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 8, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Food for thought

    In order to protect his/her anonymity, any ethical restaurant critic plays by the unwritten rules: Don't make a reservation under your own name. Don't scribble notes on top of the table. And never, ever allow your picture to be taken. Once your ident...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 8, 2000
  • Article

    Heart of Palm - The Palm

    The Palm premiered in Bay Harbor Islands in 1986, but it has the Joe's Stone Crab, old-timey feel of an institution that's been around forever. The original Palm in New York does go back pretty far -- to 1926, which is when John Ganzi and Pio Bozzi, ...

    by Lee Klein on June 1, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Tilapia Posing as Grouper Posing as Mahi-Mahi

    You've just been served a glistening tray of sushi. The salmon practically quivers with freshness and vitality; the yellowtail snapper looks like velvet, laid out over the rice; and the tuna is the most tempting of all, the rich, ruby redness beckoni...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 1, 2000
  • Article

    Mariachi and Chips - Tequila Sunrise

    It was on the drive to Tequila Sunrise that one of my dinner guests inquired as to what sort of place we were headed. "Mexican," I replied, though it turned out she had already surmised that. I really didn't know any more, other than having been told...

    by Lee Klein on May 25, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Gotta Go Bananas

    Ah, the banana. If you've looked around our markets lately, you might have noticed the several varieties from which you can make your selection. You can choose the short and chunky dwarf, finger, or red banana. You can check out the bananas that tast...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 25, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - The prodigal chef returns

    The prodigal chef returns. Hang on to your Caribbean Cowboy hats, boys and girls -- Johnny Vinczencz has reclaimed his place in the kitchen at Astor Place. The chef decided to sign on again when he and his investor couldn't find an appropriate South ...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 25, 2000
  • Article

    Something Nuevo at Yuca - Yuca

    Like many curious New Yorkers whose acquaintance with Cuban food was largely limited to the tasty but pretty basic mom-and-pop Cuban/Chinese joints that once sprouted on every block of Manhattan's Upper West Side, I devoured the New York Times piece ...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on May 18, 2000
  • Article

    Diner Declaration - I Do D'Clare

    Deborah Calderon is the "D" and Clare Kelley the "Clare" of I Do D'Clare, a cozy 65-seat breakfast and lunch spot on Ponce de Leon, just off South Dixie Highway in the Gables. The same location used to house another restaurant, Loffler's, where Debor...

    by Lee Klein on May 18, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Party Sinker

    Thus far in my lifetime, I've vowed never again to do three things: be pregnant, board a boat, or drink tequila. All three, you see, turn my rather weak stomach as easily as a hurricane upsets a kayak. So it was with no minor trepidation that I, four...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 18, 2000
  • Article

    Sopa Cabana - Bolero Bar & Grill

    A civilized Latin supper club seems out of place amid the raucous scene of South Beach's Washington Avenue, but that's exactly the point behind Bolero Bar & Grill -- a place on kid row for adults to enjoy. Apparently the mature elements of Miami ha...

    by Lee Klein on May 11, 2000
  • Article

    Ice Nice, Baby - Icebox Cafe

    When I moved to South Beach seven years ago, I instantly learned the drill. There are two strolling streets: Tourists hang on Ocean Drive; locals hang on Lincoln Road. This wasn't a rigid rule. It was occasionally fun to walk the Drive after dark, w...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on May 11, 2000
  • Article

    Taste of Bamb - Bamb

    Rarely has a restaurant in South Florida been so anticipated as pan-Asian Bamb, largely because of its co-owner, Cameron Diaz, who hooked up with her restaurateur/hotelier partners Karim Masri and Hubert Baudoin while shooting There's Something Abou...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on May 4, 2000
  • Article

    Basic Basque - Phillipe Restaurant

    Countless adjectives can be used to describe the multitudinous restaurants of Miami-Dade. "Adventurous" is not one of them. Our ethnic-dining establishments seem particularly snakebit when it comes to exploring the more intriguing realms of their nat...

    by Lee Klein on April 27, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Sandwich Comes of New Age

    Every morning John Rossetti braises a brisket. He roasts a pork loin, a chicken or two, mixes a meat loaf. He caramelizes onions and grills vegetables like zucchini and eggplant. Then he piles them all, in various combinations, on three different hom...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 27, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Feeding and seeding the community

    Mayya has made a lot of changes in its lineup recently, but the most startling is the release of executive chef Guillermo Tellez. Ever polite, the Charlie Trotter protg says he was let go because of a "difference of opinion." Word on the street is ...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 27, 2000
  • Article

    Let's Do Brunch - Sundays on the Bay

    There are times when it's awfully difficult to explain why one lives in Miami. Like now, during this period of embarrassing Elianmania, with the national media trumpeting the arrogant antics of one small but stupid-as-a-stump group of right-wing refu...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on April 20, 2000
  • Article

    Diners' Club - Westside Diner

    Fast food joints failed to deliver a knockout punch to diners, but they did have those American institutions on the ropes and looking hopeless for a while. That was back in the early Sixties, and one of the main attractions of the then-new national b...

    by Lee Klein on April 20, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Anywhere but Here

    It was bound to happen. After nearly a decade of regional this and local that, restaurateurs and chefs have tired of self-imposed provincial restrictions. Suddenly it seems instead of promoting products from our back-yard growers and purveyors, some ...

    by Jen Karetnick on April 20, 2000
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