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  • Article

    Dish - Shirt, Shoes, but No Service

    Restaurant service sucks in South Florida (see Opium review). It's a given, almost part of the Miami mystique: Our restaurants are so hospitality-poor we're darn near proud of it. At least some of us are -- those who hate the tourists. Don't like the...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 17, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Patience no longer is just a virtue -- it's a valuable commodity

    Looks as though the Denny's at 19313 S. Dixie Hwy. in Miami lost something in lawyers' fees but gained remuneration by way of reputation: A civil lawsuit filed last October by Ronald Flagler and Janet Jones alleging race discrimination has been dismi...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 17, 2000
  • Article

    Market Sharing - Pulcinella's Marketplace & Caf

    Pulcinella's Marketplace & Caf is a large, bright, white gourmet marketplace, a "purveyor of fine foods," as they put it. It also is a caf, which, if you come in from the front as opposed to the side entrance, is what you'll encounter first. The d...

    by Lee Klein on August 10, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Hold That Drink!

    Two women were seen at La Paloma last Saturday night. Both were so drunk they couldn't utter a coherent sentence. Both clearly were in no condition to get behind a wheel, and both were headed for a doozy of a hangover the next morning. These two wom...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 10, 2000
  • Article

    Big Easy Flavor - Liaison

    Alice Waters is the person most often credited with pioneering, in this nation, the notion of fine cuisine as fresh, high-quality, locally procured foods prepared as simply as possible. That's just what she served at her Chez Panisse restaurant in Be...

    by Lee Klein on August 3, 2000
  • Article

    It's Cooking Online

    For the average food-oriented consumer, the Internet and Web-related technology have been a blessing for several years now. You can log on to read restaurant reviews, research recipes, order food, and even make reservations on countless sites: Food.c...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 3, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - He wasn't a local but the South Florida food world will miss him ...

    He wasn't a local but the South Florida food world will miss him all the same: William Garry, the editor in chief of Bon Appett, died June 29 at age 56. The passage hasn't yet been reported in the magazine; in fact the August issue features one of G...

    by Jen Karetnick on August 3, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Aim High, Open Small

    So how long does it really take a chef to open his own restaurant? According to fortysomething Pascal Oudin, who says he came to the United States from France when he was 24 years old to do just that, it takes two decades. And how much does it cost? ...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 27, 2000
  • Article

    Johnny Comes Back - Astor Place

    He's got the best rock-star name of any local chef: Johnny V. And the coolest dub: Caribbean Cowboy. Never mind that Mr. Vinczencz is from St. Louis, Missouri, the important thing is that he's come back in the kitchen of Astor Place, where before l...

    by Lee Klein on July 20, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Designs That Kill

    You've just finished dining in a new restaurant, and your companion asks if you liked it. The food was good, but somehow you can't respond that you really liked "it." Perhaps that element you can't stab your finger at was that the food arrived on blu...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 20, 2000
  • Article

    Calypso Ribs - Islands Bar-B-Que

    Years ago, before moving here, I found myself on Douglas Road in the Gables, half an hour early for some business meeting I had flown down to attend. With time to kill, and my knees practically buckling from the relentless intensity of the summer sun...

    by Lee Klein on July 13, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Still Standing

    Two months ago my husband and I were madly in love. Eight weeks later we've lost the romance. The brief affair was with mangoes. Our new house used to be part of a mango plantation, and we have a veritable grove of the fruit trees. Eleven, to be exa...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 13, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - Generation Chef speaks up

    Generation Chef speaks up: Kris Wessel, chef-proprietor of Liaison in South Beach, objects to my use of the word "fusion" to describe his restaurant. "Liaison's menu and my style of cooking stem from the strong French influence in New Orleans and a S...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 13, 2000
  • Article

    The Zion King - Bissaleh Caf

    Bissaleh Caf is a kosher Israeli dairy restaurant/pizza place/ juice bar/coffee bar. Not, you might say, your typical, everyday dining establishment. The dcor can best be described as a Yiddish Vacas Gordas, with more space between the tables. Like...

    by Lee Klein on July 6, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Tantric Flex

    What do locals call a restaurant that has a floor composed of live grass, screens the movie Kama Sutra almost constantly, and labels its cuisine "aphrodisiac?" An eatery where prices for main courses hover around the $40 mark? Where patrons dance in ...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 6, 2000
  • Article

    Franks for the Memories - Various concessions at Pro Player Stadium

    This review will only be of interest to those who plan on heading out to catch a Marlins baseball game. All 60 of you. Of course the Fish, as the team is endearingly called, cannot hope to contend this year because their player payroll is only slight...

    by Lee Klein on June 29, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - New Generation Chefs?

    Here are the rumors: Bicoastal celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa may be bringing his pan-Asian talents to Miami -- there's talk of the Shore Club location. Top toque Jean-Georges Vongerichten could be doing the same. And the Big Apple's Keith McNally, wh...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 29, 2000
  • Article

    Side Dish - South Beachites, don't panic!

    South Beachites, don't panic. Despite Chrysanthemum's darkened quarters and restaurant-for-sale sign on the front door, the Beach's finest flower has not dropped its petals. Rather the gourmet Chinese eatery has moved to Coconut Grove. Despite a very...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 29, 2000
  • Article

    Stripped-down Italian - Oggi Caffe

    The Palm Plaza Shopping Center is just another nondescript strip mall, one of hundreds, maybe thousands, marring Miami's landscape. My feeling has always been that if you're going to uglify a neighborhood, the least you can do is offer good food, and...

    by Lee Klein on June 22, 2000
  • Article

    Dish - Gender Is the Bite

    I was watching The Newlywed Game. So sue me for bad taste. But to be honest, I wasn't really paying attention until the bonus round, when after four questions that centered on sexual innuendo, host Bob Eubanks asked the wives: "Of the three traffic-l...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 22, 2000
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