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  • Article

    Side Dish - Intrepid new eateries

    I've spent so much time lately looking at the restaurants that haven't opened, readers tell me, it's almost like I've neglected the ones that have. Intrepid new eateries, forgive me. Downtown Italian restaurants La Loggia and La Nota, I didn't mean t...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 12, 2001
  • Article

    Rolo-ing with the Punches - Casa Rolo's Caf

    Casa Rolo's Caf has the distinction of being one of Thomas Kramer's first victims. This was back in 1997, when the ber-developer with a penchant for disorderly conduct was in the process of reconstructing the low-rise, low-rent tip of South Beach. ...

    by Lee Klein on July 5, 2001
  • Article

    Tapas All Nippon - Yakko-San

    Even a few words into this review you might already be thinking, "Geez, she sounds a whole lot less moronic this week." And if the strange symbols on the back of the menu at Yakko-San are to be believed, you might be right. Because on recent visits t...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on July 5, 2001
  • Article

    A Rumi Rumination - Rumors of its debut have been greatly exaggerated

    They always say, be careful what you wish for. Who are "they"? Who the hell knows -- but screw 'em. Because I may be about to get what I've always wanted. Almost exactly a year ago, I publicly entreated our native (or close enough to it) chefs to ge...

    by Jen Karetnick on July 5, 2001
  • Article

    Grilled Marlins - Pro Player Stadium concessions

    When I read that the Florida Marlins' brain trust (okay, wrong word, but you know what I mean) had changed concessionaires during the off-season, I didn't assume it was solely because of my blistering review last year of their ballpark food. "I'd lik...

    by Lee Klein on June 28, 2001
  • Article

    The Good Sicilian - La Gastronomia

    Located two blocks north of Miracle Mile, informal Italian deli La Gastronomia is easily overlooked. This is not because the food is forgettable but because the casual eatery is relatively small (two rustic rooms); relatively understated (no big sign...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on June 28, 2001
  • Article

    Sweet Danish - Bistro Zinc

    To most Americans Danish cuisine means three things: herring, lots more herring, and Tuborg beer. And of the three, only the last really has caught on. Despite the fact that it is said Danes have a different herring preparation for every day of the y...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on June 21, 2001
  • Article

    Diner, Inc. - Clarke's

    Clarke's is a new "diner" on South Beach, but there's something not quite dinerish about the place. Part of the problem might be that it's located in a historic coral house, which isn't the sort of backdrop you expect for fare like "Frenchy toast," "...

    by Lee Klein on June 21, 2001
  • Article

    Baby, You Can't Drive My Car - Of valets and violations

    The instant message I received from a friend was extremely alarming. "I felt so violated," it read. Yikes, I thought. Had she been sexually assaulted? No, as it turned out. But her glove compartment had been raped -- by a valet who didn't even have ...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 21, 2001
  • Article

    Side Dish - Why be dry?

    You'd think we'd been in Utah or something: Miami Shores is kicking up its heels over the first restaurant to win a beer-and-wine license since, well, ever. The Village Caf has finally convinced the Village Council that Miami Shores is not Salt Lake...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 21, 2001
  • Article

    The Flapjack Flip-Off - The Original Pancake House

    Hold on to your hats, especially the flat ones -- it's time for the First Annual Flapjack Flip-Off. Our four contestants: the Original Pancake House and the International House of Pancakes, for obvious reasons; S&S Diner, because it's the sort of lan...

    by Lee Klein on June 14, 2001
  • Article

    Classic Indian/Italian Cuisine - Silver Spoon Subs & Grill

    Until recently when one person in a couple wanted Indian food and the other wanted to grab a sub sandwich, the only solution was divorce. For the past two years, though, Silver Spoon Subs & Grill has been putting marriage counselors out of business. ...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on June 14, 2001
  • Article

    The Sweet Fruit of Hard Labor - Living the lychee life

    "It's like owning a boat," notes Michael Schwartz, executive chef-proprietor of Nemo, Shoji Sushi, and Big Pink, on the way back from picking lychees at his friend Roland Samimy's grove down in the Redland. But it's "better to have a friend who owns ...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 14, 2001
  • Article

    New Italian Eatery, Take Twenty - Blumarine

    There is no such thing as authentic Italian cuisine, at least not in Italy. That's because until about 150 years ago, there was no such thing as Italy. Before political union there were a couple of dozen independent regions, and in terms of food cult...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on June 7, 2001
  • Article

    Stick to the Ribs - SoBe Bar-B-Q

    An antique jukebox spins old-time country, rock, and blues at SoBe Bar-B-Q, a bare-bones 50-seat restaurant that opened a few months back on Washington Avenue. Proprietor Paul Orofino, who used to own Serendipity nightclub in Coconut Grove, tries to ...

    by Lee Klein on June 7, 2001
  • Article

    Putting Up a Billboard, Live - It's no breeze opening one of the grandest club concepts yet

    On the one hand, it's pretty tough to understand why Ephraim Kadish is smiling. As the vice president of culinary affairs and executive chef for Billboard Live, a multimillion-dollar dining-and-entertainment project in South Beach that has been in de...

    by Jen Karetnick on June 7, 2001
  • Article

    When in Roma - Sapori di Roma Ristorante Italiano e Pizzeria

    Sometimes I imagine other restaurant reviewers sitting plushly in front of giant, high-resolution computer screens, scrolling long lists of dining recommendations e-mailed to them by their well-organized, rigorously maintained network of knowledgeabl...

    by Lee Klein on May 31, 2001
  • Article

    Crme de la Kane - The French Bakery

    Kane Concourse is a pretty exciting stretch of road if one is looking for, say, a cardiogram. As far as food goes, though, even Arthur Godfrey Road, with its almost unbroken stretch of banks, is more promising for people looking for a little lunch. C...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on May 31, 2001
  • Article

    Time to Wine Down - Summer cellars

    The start of the rainy season has special significance for those of us fascinated by the food-and-wine scene. And I'm not talking about the fact that we now have moisture falling from the sky, so can expect to be served water instead of having to pla...

    by Jen Karetnick on May 31, 2001
  • Article

    So Good Shoji - Shoji Sushi

    When Shoji Sushi opened in mid-March, it was an occasion of great relief. After all, the particular block of lower Collins Avenue on which Shoji is located was perhaps the only one in SoBe that didn't already house two or three sushi bars; weary sout...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on May 24, 2001
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