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  • Article

    Who's Cooking? - Expendable chefs are the order of the day

    Billboard: Live or Dead. The reaction to my announcement last week that corporate chef Ephraim Kadish had been let go from Breez was intensely unanimous: Fellow chefs are up in arms. At least when their arms aren't busy chopping onions, apparently. B...

    by Jen Karetnick on November 1, 2001
  • Article

    Lunch During Wartime - Salads of Macedonia

    When we heard the first explosion through an open bedroom window, my wife and I thought it might be thunder. This occurred the day of our arrival. Soon afterward military helicopters buzzed precariously low overhead, and every now and then a jet figh...

    by Lee Klein on October 25, 2001
  • Article

    Hot Diggity - Arbetter Hot Dogs

    All over New Jersey this time of year, people brave parking-lot-type traffic jams to drive west to the Poconos to see the fall foliage. This is true even of those who live in tree-studded "garden" suburbs like Montclair, where there are plenty of lea...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on October 25, 2001
  • Article

    Prepared for Foods - But these are just economics talking

    "Your restaurant! Your war!" wrote Troy Brackett, publisher of Restaurantnews.com, in an impassioned restaurateur call to arms following the September 11 attacks. "During these uncertain times, it is imperative that we understand where we are, what w...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 25, 2001
  • Article

    Good, for Starters - Fresco California Bistro

    Would you compare Norman's to Piola Pizza? Well, neither would I. Each is great at what it is. In fact the only fair way to judge restaurants is not by one scale but by trying to evaluate how well any given restaurant succeeds according to its own in...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on October 18, 2001
  • Article

    Pan Can Do - Don Pan

    Home Depot and the Latin-flavored bakery chain Don Pan are inextricably linked in my mind, and not just because I am an unabashed fan of both places. Whenever I pull into the Depot parking lot, I salivate with Pavlovian anticipation, knowing from hab...

    by Lee Klein on October 18, 2001
  • Article

    To Dine or to Dance - Rumi

    On May 29, 1913, as a string orchestra performed in the restaurant of the Savoy hotel in London, two diners rose from their chairs and began dancing. As others followed suit, tables were pushed aside to clear space, and social tradition was overturne...

    by Lee Klein on October 11, 2001
  • Article

    A Hug: In Miami, No Less - We're going to have American food coming out of our corn-fed ears

    Steve Cuozzo, restaurant critic for the New York Post, recently published his view on how to get back to the business of fine dining during these times of terror: "The mayor and the president urge us to get on with life. I'm ready to take the plunge....

    by Jen Karetnick on October 11, 2001
  • Article

    Comfort 'Cue - Bar-B-Q Barn

    There's been much mention in recent weeks, by food writers, of comfort food. What there hasn't been much of is scientific evidence that any such thing as edible anti-stress substances exist; even the New York Times could only come up with a few disti...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on October 4, 2001
  • Article

    Margaritamill - Javier's Cantina Mexicana

    Miami's Mexican restaurants are, for the most part, utterly predictable: margarita, chips, salsa, burrito-enchilada-fajitas, and the bill, por favor. Usually the only question is whether they'll make you suffer through a mariachi band. I wasn't expec...

    by Lee Klein on October 4, 2001
  • Article

    Dish TV - Karetnick is convincing in this miniseries

    I admit I was one of the doubters -- no surprise there -- when I first heard that celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse had been cast as the lead in a television sitcom that would debut this fall. My concern didn't spring from the proposed plot (a gentle sen...

    by Jen Karetnick on October 4, 2001
  • Article

    Wish Upon a Star - Wish

    It was mere weeks, not the usual months or years, after becoming Wish's executive chef in 1999 that Andrea Curto began garnering national awards and great reviews as the hottest food thing in South Florida since Scotch bonnet peppers. And the very fi...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 27, 2001
  • Article

    Lights Are Dim, Not Out - Is the South Beach scene declining?

    Even before the catastrophic events of the past weeks, culinary forecasters -- New Times among them -- have been predicting the decline and fall of the South Beach scene. Our seasonal mainstay of models, photogs, and film crews largely declined to sh...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 27, 2001
  • Article

    Tragical Mystery Zr - Zr New World Cuisine

    I returned home hounded by two nagging questions: What is Zr New World Cuisine restaurant really all about? And what, exactly, is a zr? The latter query was answered easily enough by asking over the phone. Turns out zr means "nothing in particular...

    by Lee Klein on September 20, 2001
  • Article

    Deli Done Good - Ruthy's Pastries

    "Astonish me!" the impresario Diaghilev commanded then-nobody writer Jean Paul Sartre on a Paris street corner back in the Thirties. And soon-to-be-somebody Sartre did just that. But according to my friend Robert, a lifelong Southern Florida native I...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 20, 2001
  • Article

    Drink in Life - The terrorism in the Northeast can bring us together

    As animals we know instinctively that eating is vital to our existence. Hunger is a primal urge. Without food our bodies can't sustain themselves. As human beings, however, we may suspect that dining out, and writing and reading about dining out, is ...

    by Jen Karetnick on September 20, 2001
  • Article

    Tricolore Beach - Specchio Caf

    From virtually my first stroll down Ocean Drive in the early Nineties, it was apparent that one of the main foreign languages being spoken was Italian, and the stroll back up Collins and Washington avenues, past designer emporiums, made it immediatel...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 13, 2001
  • Article

    A Day in the Life - Tropical on the Beach

    South Beach, Sunday, 10:30 a.m. I walk into Tropical on the Beach, on Washington Avenue between Fourteenth and Fifteenth streets. It's a massive space, with some 200 seats and 50 silver Deco light fixtures hanging from the lofty ceiling. The bulbs ar...

    by Lee Klein on September 13, 2001
  • Article

    The Blue Jake's - Jake's Bar & Grill

    The ability of a restaurant to surprise with hitherto unseen and unheard of concepts is becoming increasingly difficult these days, yet Jake's Bar & Grill, a new eatery located across from the Shops at Sunset Place, recently succeeded in doing just t...

    by Lee Klein on September 6, 2001
  • Article

    Serious Series Food - Gourmet Gourmet

    An authentic version of chau mien as they do it in Canton would be reason enough to patronize any Chinese restaurant. And Gourmet Gourmet's double-yellow gourmet version does largely qualify as authentic. Traditionally chau mien simply was pan-fried...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 6, 2001
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