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  • Article

    Toni Turns to China

    The first Chinese restaurants in this country were opened with the intent to serve immigrants from China working during California's gold rush. When American miners took an unexpected shine to the food, a new dining phenomenon was born. By the Twenti...

    by Lee Klein on September 29, 2005
  • Article

    The Road to Heck

    If the road to hell is paved solely with good intentions, the road to heck is paved with good intentions and imperfect execution. Take Bella Cuba. The intentions of chef-owners Juan Carlos and Larisa Jimenez are clear: Serve contemporary Cuban-C...

    by Bill Citara on September 29, 2005
  • Article

    Bask in the Glow of Excellence

    The idea of organic, nutritional, sustainable cuisine, first replanted in this country by Alice Waters, has since sprouted into a whole-food movement that has widely affected the American diet. Anyone who doubts this observation need only note the cr...

    by Lee Klein on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    A Meal Any Which Way -- Except Late

    If a restaurant closes at 8:30 p.m., one counts on being able to walk in and order food until 8:30 p.m. At Miami Juice, diners with such expectations will be disappointed. Arriving one recent evening at 8:14 p.m. with a hankering for MJ's "Special Ri...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 22, 2005
  • Article

    The Price of Luxury

    It came down to the bottle from Gleneagle Estate, described as being "slightly tart" and "fantastic with seafood, particularly shellfish," or the one from Germany, "perfect for bold dishes as well as foods from the grill or rotisserie." We settled on...

    by Lee Klein on September 15, 2005
  • Article

    Food of the Gods

    Ambrosia is variously defined as the food of the gods and a salad of oranges, bananas, pineapple, and shredded coconut. I don't know about you, but if I were a god, I'd be eating my weight in foie gras, slathering my body with fresh truffles, bathi...

    by Bill Citara on September 15, 2005
  • Article

    Very Little Saigon Served

    A repetitious restaurant scene can only lead to repetitious reviews. I repeat: No, I'll clarify: From the exterior it looks like a corner coffee shop, just the sort of humble, low-key space that hints at unpretentious home-cooked food -- in this case...

    by Lee Klein on September 8, 2005
  • Article

    Moshi Moshi, Oishi

    In a town where sushi bars are as common as crooked politicians, it's hard to get excited about another one. This is especially true when the sushi operation is tacked onto a Thai restaurant, an almost sure sign that commerce, not quality, provided t...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on September 8, 2005
  • Article

    Dancing on a Dime

    The first Tango Grill, a fast-food kiosk serving grilled Argentine-style steaks, waltzed its way into the Aventura Mall in 1999. The corporate group behind it, however, was no newcomer, having already placed quick service operations in 300 shopping c...

    by Lee Klein on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    Call It Delicious

    Consider the crpe a universal food delivery system. In Italy it's called crespelle; in China, pok pang. In Mexico it's the tortilla; in Vietnam, banh tranh. In India it's chapati; in Ethiopia, injera. No matter what you call it, this humble mix...

    by Bill Citara on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    Small Bites

    Editor's note: Periodically we will publish capsule reviews like those below in addition to our weekly full reviews. This installment, dedicated to the Florida Keys, was written by Bill Citara. More than 530 capsule reviews of local restaurants can b...

    on September 1, 2005
  • Article

    It's Not All Glamour and Glitz

    Legendary chef Auguste Escoffier and Csar Ritz, "the king of hoteliers and hotelier to kings," first teamed up in 1890 at the London Savoy. Eight years later Csar was managing his new namesake hotel, Htel Ritz, in Paris, as well as the esteemed Ca...

    by Lee Klein on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    Small Bites

    Editor's note: Periodically we will publish capsule reviews like those below in addition to our weekly full reviews. This installment, dedicated to the Florida Keys, was written by Bill Citara. More than 530 capsule reviews of local restaurants can b...

    on August 25, 2005
  • Article

    A Worthy Successor - GiGi Bistro

    Until early this year, Caf One Ninety was a blissful little bohemian eatery on the northern fringe of the Design District. Owners Alan and Donna Lee Hughes offered appealing food at affordable prices in an amiable ambiance. Add to the mix an expired...

    by Lee Klein on August 18, 2005
  • Article

    The Future of Dining - Bistro Bisou

    I don't mean to put any pressure on it or anything, but the future of Miami as a serious restaurant town rests on Bistro Bisou. Okay, so maybe that is a little pressure. And maybe a bit overstated too. But the point is still a good one. See, ju...

    by Bill Citara on August 18, 2005
  • Article

    Remember, It's Just a Firkin Pub

    When Manuel Martinez, a Cervantes scholar, opened the Spanish restaurant Don Quixote in Coconut Grove five years ago, he expended considerable money and effort on transforming the dining room into a semblance of the town of La Mancha. If the food had...

    by Lee Klein on August 11, 2005
  • Article

    Where the Green Things Are

    This is the motto at Giardino Gourmet Salads: "Real, simple food." That, however, makes the place sound a lot simpler than it is. With the exception of a soup of the day, a stuffed baked potato, several desserts (including some fabulous seasonal frui...

    by Pamela Robin Brandt on August 11, 2005
  • Article

    Chasing Emeril

    It shouldn't come as a surprise that you're not familiar with Preston's, even if it has been situated in the high-profile Loews Miami Beach Hotel since 1998. It's the fate one might expect to befall a property's number two dining option, especially w...

    by Lee Klein on August 4, 2005
  • Article

    Grease Pit

    Now I know what my car feels like when I take it in for an oil change. It's been days since my dinner at Jumbo Chinese Restaurant, a depressing little dim sum joint in North Miami Beach, and I can still taste the grease from just about everything I...

    by Bill Citara on August 4, 2005
  • Article

    And Now for Something Completely Familiar

    Bice has branches in Barcelona and Buenos Aires, Mexico City and Montreal, Dubai and Delray Beach -- about two dozen restaurants in some twenty cities, with another fifteen slated to open for business by 2006. Beatrice Ruggeri (nickname: Bice) began ...

    by Lee Klein on July 28, 2005
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