Paulie Gee's Miami

The MiMo District outpost of Paulie Gee's reeks of New York City hipness. Paint-chipped ceiling beams loom over gray tables and yellow steel chairs. On the other end of the restaurant hangs a jaundiced light-up sign for China Palace Restaurant, which last occupied the building. Adjacent is a mosaic sign that reads "Size matters," and off in a corner sits a blinking pinball machine of the Whoa Nellie! Big Juicy Melons variety. The pizzas here are 12-inch Neapolitan affairs that take on gorgeous char marks after a 60-to-90 second stint in a 1,000-degree Stefano Ferrara oven. The toppings range from a Miami tribute, with the perfunctory ham, Swiss cheese, and mustard, to the Hellboy, a Brooklyn creation that pairs spicy soppressata with equally fiery honey. Vegan pies feature tangy faux ricotta made with cashews and nutritional yeast.