Cardon y El Tirano

Venezuelan chef Francisco Anton brings together the flavors of the world’s Spanish-countries in one menu. Sometimes it's for the better, and occasionally not as much. The best are his tacos, made with fresh house-pressed tortillas and topped with clever spins on classic fillings such as Negra Modelo-braised beef tongue diced and dusted with chorizo powder. Beef brisket for the funche negro is prepared like Venezuelan asado with panela — a dense, unrefined cane sugar that yields a sugary sauce with a dramatic, molasses-like depth. Yet every bit of moisture seems to be braised out of the meat, leaving it desiccated and beyond repair. Still, Anton's menu is appealing at first glance and combines the array of little snacks and dishes Miami loves. If each can be rolled out as well as the tacos, Little Havana will have another hit.