Atrio Restaurant & Wine Room at Conrad Miami

Atrio Restaurant is a bit stuffy and serious, but that's not surprising -- it's nestled in the Conrad Miami, a hotel frequented primarily by business travelers. But situated on the 25th floor of the building, within floor-to-ceiling windows and romantic balconies, Atrio boasts a beautiful view of Brickell. The menu and culinary direction, though, have suffered from some chef-shuffling in the past few years. First it produced "Asian-Latin-influenced progressive American cuisine" under the helm of Michael Gilligan, went through a four-month period with no culinary director, and then transferred hands to Jonathan McCann, who produces mainly American comfort food with few flourishes. While hearty but small portions of Angus filet with béarnaise sauce ($36) and roasted halibut served with a polenta cake, fava beans, and radish slaw ($35) are certainly satisfying, the prices suggest more cutting-edge execution or creative ingredient pairing. Some more interesting choices include an appetizer of smoked duck carpaccio served with celery root salad and truffle vinaigrette ($15) and stuffed rabbit saddle that comprises a braised leg, zucchini ribbons, and olive jus ($28).