Archie's Gourmet Pizza

This place offers fresh, uncomplicated Italian food in a pleasant environment and at family-friendly prices, a simple plan that has been filling the restaurant's 75 seats with the fannies of appreciative locals. Pastas don't exactly wow the palate but are as well prepared as those you'll find at our most popular moderately priced Italian joints -- and less expensive, almost all under $10. Penne al quattro formagio is cooked just right, the noodles smoothly coated with a politely pungent blend of mozzarella, Gruyère, Gorgonzola, and Parmesan cheese. Pappardelle al telefono, with pink tomato sauce, basil, and pine nuts, is likewise prepared with aplomb, the pasta firm to the bite, the sauce heady with smooth tomato flavor. Salads are big and tasty, and "gourmet" pizzas contain appropriately trendy toppings, like barbecue chicken or melted Brie with green apples; sane people can order a Margherita with mozzarella cheese and tomato sauce. Archie's aim is to please in an affable, affordable manner, and it ends up doing just that.