Food is fashion: Halter tops and haute French one day, bling and sushi the next. American-Chinese restaurants began to fall from favor about the time men started wearing earrings, and nowadays the dark, stodgy interiors and tired, predictable cuisine are like mutton chop sideburns to the alluringly clean face of contemporary Asian dining. These emporiums of egg foo yung have retained their most loyal legion of fans, but still — there are only so many Jews. When China won rights to the upcoming Olympics, I envisioned a potential re-embrace of the once-dominant American-Asian fare; then I witnessed the torturous tour of the... More >>>