It used to be easy to differentiate between a fine-dining establishment and a neighborhood restaurant. The former's tables would be draped in white linen, the patrons in elegant attire, and the host — referred to as "maitre d'" — would likely be wearing a tuxedo. Further clues might be ascertained via soft strains of classical music in the background, a trolley cart of cheeses rolling through the dining room, formal service executed by waiters with the bearing of proud professionals, and diners in full possession of their meals, not passing them around to share as in some family-style trattoria. The presence of duck al'orange on the menu was always an easy giveaway, and of course a perusal of prices would... More >>>