Having once been stung by a man-of-war, I was less than excited to be seated with my back to a tall, narrow tank filled with gracefully flowing jellyfish, glowing translucently in blue neon light. The waiter's chatter about chef James Wierzelewski's concept of global cuisine and how the kitchen crew resembles a veritable United Nations' worth of ethnicities didn't sway me much either; I've suffered at the hands of more ambitiously fusionesque chefs than I care to count, partaken of one too many Mexican meat loaves and Balinese borschts to begin salivating at the prospect of worldly concoctions. Not until I perused the menu, a triptych of tantalizingly described plates, did any excitement kick in (poseurs don't create such audaciously smart combinations as these). Actually, to be more precise, not until I took out my trusty little key-ring... More >>>