Arranged on a white plate, the slender four-ounce medallion of American Kobe beef tenderloin and the dwarfish five-ounce standing rectangle of American Kobe meat loaf, with an insubstantial squirt of white potato purée in between, looked to me like a domed sports stadium and an office building side by side, with nothing else around. As seen from the window of a jetliner. This precious, toylike entrée and its precise placement on the plate, in fact, provided just the sort of stereotypical image of highfalutin' food that I imagine would elicit hoots of derisive laughter if served to, say, a group of hungry...
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