It has become apparent in recent months that Miami restaurants are finally catching on to certain dining trends that have long been established elsewhere around the country -- like, for instance, an emphasis on letting foods speak for themselves in clean and sensible fashion. David Bracha, chef/owner of the new River Oyster Bar, appears to be heading in the opposite direction. As the former chef of Fishbone Grille, the popular downtown seafood joint that once occupied this space, Bracha offered up a wide array of fresh fish grilled, fried, blackened, and so on; he left the fancy stuff for daily specials. Here the menu is filled with fish dishes topped by frizzled leeks, fried noodles, and all manner of garnishings that architecturally heighten the plates, but pack about as much gastronomic punch as a...
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