To most Americans Danish cuisine means three things: herring, lots more herring, and Tuborg beer. And of the three, only the last really has caught on. Despite the fact that it is said Danes have a different herring preparation for every day of the year, none of the 365 has exactly sent Italian or New World chefs racing to the kitchen to rewrite their menus. Those who actually live in, or who have visited, Denmark realize there has always been more to Danish food. For some reason, however, the best traditional cuisine hasn't survived the translation from Denmark. Smørrebrød, the little open-faced sandwiches (in hundreds of varieties) that in their home country are as elegantly constructed as mini-still-life sculptures, are interpreted here as not much more than regulation deli ham-and-cheese sandwiches with the top slice left off. Ribbensteg? Right. Just try and find this supersucculent cut of pork rib roast with the crackling layer left on. Smorgasbord, aside from being more a Swedish than a Danish tradition, is here just one more buffet table -- with... More >>>