Several encouraging things were immediately apparent when Milkyway Café opened several months ago in my neighborhood, which is predominantly populated by people who walk to synagogue wearing fur hats and floor-length wool clothes in August. The most optimistic note was that the restaurant replaced Adam's Ribs, a kosher joint serving "barbecue" that, tastewise, bore about as much resemblance to real pit-cooked Texas brisket as Velveeta does to cheese. Also quite clear from its name was that Milkyway would be a dairy restaurant. It is, but instead of standard ricotta/farmer's cheese breakfast blintzes, there are sweet dessert blintzes awash in ice cream and chocolate syrup, or savory blintzes with stuff like onions, mushrooms, and cream sauces. And in place of potato pancakes, there are pastas. The restaurant itself, though indeed dairy, describes its cuisine as "Israeli-Italian," with an emphasis on fresh vegetables and... More >>>