The main wall is what grabs your attention as you enter Suva, adorned as it is by three looming, luminous ten-by-ten-foot panels colorfully depicting Polynesian tribal masks. In front of these are gauzy white curtains running from floor to high ceiling, and a shadowbox bar piled with sand and seashells that juts out towards the center of the room. Beyond the bar is a gracefully curved stairway ascending to the second-tier dining room (Suva seats 140) and, back downstairs, directly below this area, an open kitchen where chef Robert Oliver expedites the orders. Suva's food, which grooves to a lively and tasty South Seas beat, isn't something Oliver just plucked from a cookbook. He was born in New Zealand and raised in Samoa and Fiji (whose capital is Suva). From there he acquired his culinary training in Sydney and cut his chops in Manhattan, where in 1997 he hooked up with China Grill Management's New York team. Oliver landed in Miami for NOA's opening a couple of years ago, right on the spot where Suva now stands. (NOA has since been exiled to the smaller space next door, which formerly served... More >>>