Che Guevara was not the reason I took the Number 13 train from Havana to Santa Clara, Cuba, though it's true Guevara is buried in Santa Clara, along with 23 of his comrades in arms, all of whom died 32 years ago in a quest to spread Cuba's communist revolution to South America. Their remains lie in an elegant minimalist mausoleum on a grassy hill. From here, under the panoramic sky of central Cuba, a monumental bronze statue of the martyred Che surveys the town that, more than any other in Cuba, was marked by his brief passage through history. He stares down on the faded façades of seventeenth-century homes lining narrow streets that run from the central square; the hulking, dilapidated housing projects near the edges of town; then beyond to red-dirt roads disappearing into green... More >>>