Clad in white elegance and black lacquer floors, this two-level, 400-seater in the Gansevoort Hotel is as debonair as one might expect from a Chinese restaurant named Philippe. The space soars with supper-club sophistication. Central focal points include a lengthy bar, a black slate water wall, and a wall of glass that offers panoramic peeks (from either floor) into the big, bright, spotless kitchen — where gleaming steel woks hang above the stoves like an armored chorus line. If the timing is right, you might catch noodle-master Wai Ming Cheng working his magic. It is truly amazing to watch him, at a makeshift station in the middle of the dining room, as he stretches a ball of dough into an elastic strand, twirls it like a rodeo star performing a rope trick, and then quickly and unexpectedly — as though a sorcerer has summoned noodle spirits — hoists into the air a wooden bar curtained with perfect linguine-shaped strands. The wowed crowd... More >>>