"Just like being in Italy." That's what people who have never been to Italy often say about their favorite Italian-American restaurants, inevitably the sort that serve huge platters of pasta topped with gallons of red sauce and mounds of melted mozzarella. I wonder what the reaction is when these poor schmucks actually find themselves in Italy and are fed fresh, light, sanely portioned cuisine. Fratelli Lyon, a Design District newcomer, serves fare that is really, honestly, literally just like being in Italy. Heck, many of the products here come from the boot, including olive oil, salumi, Italian DOP cheeses, heirloom legumes, and boutique wines. And goods not shipped from overseas are equally virtuous: sustainable seafood, organically grown produce, grass-fed beef, airy loaves of home-baked ciabatta bread, and fresh pastas made in-house. Even the water is flush with integrity; an in-house filtration system produces still and sparkling waters that are served in reusable one-liter glass bottles. This means no disposable bottled water is sold — a principled environmental stand that owner Ken Lyon is no doubt paying for by... More >>>