The rent has skyrocketed eightfold. The onetime flophouse has been painted and transformed into pricey condos. A shabby sign that once read, "Vacancy -- Lowest Rates -- Beach Facilities -- Always a Seabreeze," has been replaced by a pretty picture peddling a $7 million residence.
The beachside hotel where two of America's most infamous killers hunkered down while on the run has undergone quite a change. It was exactly a half-century ago on Christmas day -- December 25, 1959 -- that Dick Hickock and Perry Smith, the protagonists of Truman Capote's classic In Cold Blood, ended up at 335 Ocean Dr. on South Beach.
After a failed robbery, Hickock and Smith had tied up and then shot dead the family of Herb Clutter, a well-regarded businessman in a small Kansas town. Their journey across America, to prison, and finally to a public hanging is the most compelling crime tale ever written.
And as in all good crime stories, Miami plays a role. Page 199 of
Riptide's edition describes the two misfits' visit to the Somerset
Hotel, where four women sunbathed on the beach, ice cream was cheap,
and Smith whispered to Hickock: "You never wished me a merry
Christmas," before pondering suicide.
Today, the Somerset has become the Oceanwalk Condos, and none of the
five people Riptide spoke to there had read Capote's magnificent book.
Two contractors who live in the building -- 30-year-old Sisay Barcia and
45-year-old Andy Osorio -- were chatting under a canopy out front as
rain pelted the now-stylish neighborhood.
Osorio, who's half-Cuban and half-Italian, came to Miami from
Guantánamo during the 1980 Mariel Boatlift. He bought a one-bedroom
condo 15 years ago for $45,000 and watched it balloon almost ten times
in value -- then drop by half in the past couple of years. He's never
heard of In Cold Blood. "The killers would be nabbed if they tried to
stay here today," he says. "The police department is everywhere."
Barcia agrees. Miami is Miami, though, so as evidence, he referred to a
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killer who a few years ago terrorized the neighborhood: "There was a
Cuban kid who used to cut people's throats on the beach, one after the
other. They finally caught him," he recalls. "They would have caught
those guys too... I'm gonna read that book."