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Wolfgang's Steakhouse is a clubby place, a downtown restaurant where martinis pair best with oysters and butter-basted steaks. That's exactly what's expected from Wolfgang Zwiener, the man who for decades was the head waiter at Peter Luger, the most lionized steak house in New York City. The server opened his first Luger-like steak house on Park Avenue and, since then, has launched six additional locations worldwide. His success thrives on the quality of his beef. Wolfgang's hangs its meats in a dry-aging box for weeks and then cooks them in a 1,600-degree broiler. Waiters in white aprons tilt the delectable steak for two ($93.90), a colossal porterhouse, until a hot pool of grease forms on the plate's edge. They serve the portion -- salty, earthy, and rich slivers of meat gashed from both the filet and strip -- and baste each piece with scalding juices. Its exterior is charred; its interior is a blushing pink. Other offerings, however, are less satisfying. Sides, such as steamed asparagus, creamed spinach, and sautéed mushrooms, are blander than they should be. But that matters little. Nobody goes to Wolfgang's for the greens.